Clean and Cool

Roland Park provides a shaded retreat within the city limits.

By Amanda Krotki | SunSpot Staff

June 30, 2000

With its large shingle houses, wide wrap-around porches, curving tree-lined lanes, and proximity to downtown Baltimore, Roland Park was intended as an ideal summer home for the city's wealthier residents.


Green, green, green: Developers worked to preserve existing trees when they built Roland Park. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

When the neighborhood emerged in 1892, its main goal was to keep landowners cool and clean. Its homes were specifically designed with air circulation in mind and old trees were preserved to maintain plentiful shaded areas.

Rich Mount Vernonites were lured away from the city with promises of clean air and impressive water and sewage systems. The water, coming from artesian wells, was considered a source of pride for the neighborhood because of its pure, cold and tasty properties.

Later, in 1904, the area switched storage of its domestic water supply to the 200,000-gallon, 148-foot-tall Water Tower, which was used until 1930 and has since become a local landmark.

Today, Roland Park -- with its landscaping by Frederick Law Olmstead Jr., the son of the man who designed Central Park -- is considered one of the city's most sought-after addresses.

Architectural styles range from Queen Anne and Victorian to Arts and Crafts and shingled cottages. There are mansions, but there are also a handful of apartment buildings, as well as two-family homes. Although Roland Park has the reputation for being one of the city's most affluent areas -- local authors, politicians and other notables often choose to make it their home -- it also houses many middle-class families.


	Lap of luxury: Houses in Roland Park were built for comfort. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

Roland Park -- named for Roland Thornberry, an English Baltimore County landowner, who also gave his name to Roland Run and Lake Roland -- is a family-friendly neighborhood. It is a very low-crime area that boasts many schools -- both public and private.

In 1901, The Roland Park Company (incorporated in 1891 as the neighborhood's main developer and governing body) formed the coed Roland Park Country School and operated it until 1907. In 1908, it began to operate independently. Today, it is one of Baltimore's top-notch, all-girls private institutions. Across the street from Roland Park Country are the private Gilman School for Boys and the public Roland Park Elementary and Middle School. Nearby, there is also Friends School, The Odyssey School, Loyola College and the College of Notre Dame of Maryland.

In addition to having approximately 1,000 homes (up from a mere 250 in 1904), Roland Park also features three major shopping areas: the 400-500 blocks of Cold Spring Lane, the 4800 and 5100 blocks of Roland Avenue and the Village of Cross Keys at 5100 Falls Road.

If you plan to spend the day in the genteel neighborhood, start at Cold Spring Lane with a country vegetable or chocolate chip bagel from Sam's Bagels.


Art flicks galore: You probably won't find "Speed 2" prominently displayed at Video Americain. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

With bagel firmly in hand, stroll down to Video Americain, the area's best video rental store, to rent something classic, independent or foreign for later.

Sometimes it's worth stopping by just to check out the arty clerks' latest styles, listen to their extensive film knowledge and recommendations, and see what's playing on the in-house VCR.

After you've gotten your latest James Ivory-Ismail Merchant or Alfred Hitchcock fix, get in the car and take a pleasant afternoon drive from Keswick Road to University Parkway, admiring the elegant homes and colorful gardens.

On University Parkway you'll discover the One World Cafe. Stop in for a muffin or a vegan sandwich and shoot a game of pool while you munch.

Then, get back in the car and head north on University. You'll see the historic-but-vacant water tower at the intersection of Roland and University, as well as run-down green spaces, which once featured fountains and park benches.


	Neighborhood landmark: Although it has outlived its purpose, the water tower in Roland Park remains a beacon at University and Roland. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

When you reach the 4800 block of Roland Avenue, you'll see the Roland Park Shopping Center -- the first strip shopping center in the country. (Incidentally, Roland Park was also one of Baltimore's first suburban developments and one of the first planned communities in the country.)

Built in 1896, the cream-colored stucco facade featured Wagner's grocery, Victor's Market, Glazier's bakery, Morgan Millard drugstore, a tearoom and a post office. The firehouse was (and is) located directly behind the strip.

The shopping center became such an important addition to the neighborhood that the Lake Roland Elevated electric line -- built in 1903 to provide quick and easy transportation to and from the city -- looped around the building as a part of its route.

Morgan Millard -- named for Dr. Morgan and Dr. Millard, who operated the pharmacy, tea room and soda fountain -- enjoyed a second existence as a popular cafe serving new southern cuisine, poached pear salads and healthy sandwiches. Unfortunately, "the Morg" closed in 1999, but has been replaced by Chef Cindy Wolf's Petit Louis Bistro.


Enoch Pratt: This branch of the library is a popular hangout for students. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

Further north on Roland Avenue is another strip of shops. If you're looking for the latest "New York Times" bestsellers but don't want to spend the money, stop by the rather small Roland Park branch of the Enoch Pratt Free Library and see what's available. During the school year, you may have to fight your way through students from the neighboring schools researching, hanging out and doing homework.

If you don't see anything for the little ones at the library, step across the street and into The Children's Bookstore, which is sure to conjure up memories from your own childhood.

Next, you'll want to stock up on ingredients for the perfect meal to accompany your video rental. If you picked a Louis Malle film, stop in Stone Mill Bakery and pick up a brioche or boule. Then, go a few feet to Eddie's Supermarket, where you'll find gourmet cheeses, fresh meats and a large selection of prepared foods.

If you caught yourself sampling some of the treats from the confectioner's at Eddie's, take a short stroll before your next stop. A walk off the beaten path in either direction is likely to yield a creek, tree-covered lanes and over-grown foliage. Once you feel refreshed, hop back into the car and head down to Falls Road. At the 5100 block of Falls Road (between Western High School and Northern Parkway), you'll discover the Village of Cross Keys.

In the late 1800s, a tavern situated at what is now Cold Spring Lane and Falls Road was known for welcoming quarrymen and mill workers. To beckon visitors, the tavern hung a sign of two crossed keys (a popular symbol of hospitality). City dwellers would flock to the area to enjoy picnics, brass bands and dances.


	Live, work, play: The Village of Cross Keys is home to shops, offices and residences. (Photo by Emily Deutschman, Special to SunSpot)

In 1962, The Rouse Company purchased land off Falls Road between Cold Spring Lane and Northern Parkway and transformed it into a gated community. Today, Cross Keys consists of condominiums with tennis courts and a pool, the Radisson Hotel, professional offices and nearly 30 retail stores.

Explore the Village with some browsing at The Store Ltd. where you'll find high-end toys, home-decorating items, designer clothes and modern jewelry by store owner Betty Cooke.

After you've tried on every hat or tie and you've fondled all the jewelry, check out Williams Sonoma for the day's sample offerings.

If you'd rather not prepare all that food you purchased at Eddie's, you can always double back to Cold Spring for a famous over-sized burger at neighborhood fave, Alonso's or head to University Parkway for some Middle Eastern fare at The Carlyle Club.

Whether you prefer going casual with a walk to the nearest coffee or ice cream cafe, or you prefer to arrive in style at some of Roland Park's ritzier addresses, there's enough of a variety of activities in the neighborhood to please all tastes. Although it does have a WASPy reputation (perhaps a remaining result of the original land deeds that prohibited Jews, blacks and immigrants from purchasing land in the area), today Roland Park residents enjoy the setting for its quiet, relaxed atmosphere, plentiful parking and access to all of life's necessities.

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Roland Park provides a shaded retreat within the city limits.

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