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Highlandtown

This working class neighborhood mixes old Baltimore charm with a renovation renaissance.

By Jennifer Siciliano Shayne | Special to Baltimoresun.com

April 14, 2004

Highlandtown (Note: Highlandtown is not pronounced HIGH-landtown. Locals know it's "Hollantown," hon.) is possibly the quintessential Baltimore neighborhood. It is characterized by those magnificent marble stoops (ideal for sitting in the summer), Formstone-covered rowhouses and corner bars (filled with locals playing Keno and drinking Natty Boh). Its shopping district is a mix of hip, new stores and old boutiques and fix-it shops packed with history.

While some parts of Highlandtown may seem frozen in time, the area is experiencing a home-buying renaissance, serving as a lower-cost alternative to its trendy neighbors, Canton and Fells Point.

The area currently known as Highlandtown was established in 1866, when Union troops abandoned what was then known as Snake Hill. An Irish immigrant, Thomas McGuinness, staked his claim, designating streets and creating a village. Gradually businesses moved into the area -- mostly breweries and butchers -- and the first settlers there were primarily German Catholics. The first act of public relations came in 1870, when the citizenry of Snake Hill decided the name wasn't doing much for the village's image.

They ditched the reptilian language for the more appropriate Highland Town (the area offered a fabulous view of the city).

A fire department sprang up on what is now North Conkling Street in 1873, and the first police officer was appointed in 1875. Also, the former building of the National Brewing Company, purveyors of National Bohemian beer, still stands on O'Donnell Street, in Brewer's Hill.

By 1888, Canton and Highlandtown had a combined population of more than 2,700 residents. At this point, the city line ended at East Avenue, and city officials tried to extend the city's boundaries to include the area. Highlandtown and Canton residents, wanting none of that, introduced a bill to annex themselves and create their own municipality. The measure was voted down by the Baltimore City Council, and, in 1918, the city's limits were officially extended to their current boundaries, including Highlandtown and Canton.

Even today the boundaries are blurred between the two neighborhoods. While many consider the eastern boundary to be Haven Street, the northern boundary is sometimes Baltimore Street, sometimes Pulaski Highway. Similarly, the western boundary sometimes extends to Clinton Street, and sometimes includes all of Patterson Park. Southern boundaries vary; depending on the real estate agent, parts of Highlandtown above Eastern Avenue are considered North Canton (properties there cost a bit more than Highlandtown -- expensive semantics, really), although Highlandtown residents above Eastern are pretty adamant they're not living in Canton.

What many can agree on is Highlandtown's upsurge in popularity and stability. The area was once considered a scary place to be alone at night, but residents are reclaiming it, piece by piece. Where Baltimore Street was once home to drug dealers and prostitutes, increased police presence and a neighborhood watch have helped to make the area safer. Similarly, Patterson Park, which saw a decline in the late 1970s, has had community and city help in renovating the area and making it a great place to play ball, walk the dog or have a picnic. It also features a great vantage point for watching fireworks. Properly situated, onlookers can see the Inner Harbor fireworks display, as well as the display in Dundalk.

While Patterson Park is sometimes included in the boundaries and sometimes not, Highlandtown residents certainly take advantage of Baltimore's "best backyard." The Mimi DiPietro Ice Skating Rink (dubbed "the MimiDome" by locals) features indoor skating, or, for those who find the ice too hard, a lovely indoor fire and hot chocolate. On the other side of the park is the Pagoda, built in 1891. The magnificent oddity fell into disrepair due to lack of maintenance and a surplus of vandalism, and it closed in 1951. It was completely restored, intricately painted and reopened in 2002, and is now open Sundays, from May through October.

All this restoration has led the classic gray Formstone enclave of Highlandtown into a housing boom, and streets are slowly giving way to rehabbed and renovated homes, with brick fronts restored. While many homes can still be purchased for approximately $70,000, some renovated beauties with hot tubs, refinished hardwood floors and rooftop decks are cracking the $200,000 mark. With its close proximity to Patterson Park, Highlandtown is considered prime real estate, helped along by the Patterson Park Community Development Corporation. Residents are diverse: white- and blue-collar workers, older people and young families, with a wide variety of ethnic and religious backgrounds.

It's not unusual to find people who grew up down the block from their current homes, or several generations on one street, lending a sense of continuity and stability to the neighborhood.

In addition to homes being comparatively cheap, the neighborhood's proximity to the Inner Harbor, Fells Point and Canton, as well as I-95 and 895, makes it close enough to skip town for the weekend without having to navigate Inner Harbor traffic.

But why leave? Highlandtown has draws of its own. Eastern Avenue cuts right through the middle of Highlandtown, serving as a main drag and shopping district, as well as an easy route downtown (take a $6 cab ride to the Inner Harbor, and avoid having to park your car for an Orioles game). Although upscale boutiques are making their way into the mix, many shops have been in place for decades.

While a Home Depot certainly has its place in a neighborhood with lots to renovate, Bolewicki's Appliance Center is a great place to get washers, dryers and other appliances, and Bagdon's Vacuum Sales and Service offers sales, repairs, parts and accessories. Both shops have been around for decades.

While restoring your rowhouse, you may discover the stained-glass transom that's supposed to be above the front door is long gone. Head to Atlantic Stained Glass for custom-made stained glass, or to have existing pieces repaired. Or, learn to do it yourself in one of Atlantic's classes.

Love to cook? Or, more importantly, love to eat? Santoni's is another area mainstay, offering inexpensive, fresh groceries since 1930. It even offers a shop-at-home service, so you can call or fax your order and have it delivered right to your door.

DiPasquale's Italian Marketplace on Gough Street has exotic ingredients so you can prove your prowess as a gourmand, or you can just skip the pretense and order something from the deli. Lasagna is the specialty, but there's plenty to satisfy even the pickiest of appetites.

Highlandtown has several formidable pizza places, but locals will argue that none compare to Matthew's Pizza. The tiny, bright restaurant on Eastern Avenue has delicious Italian dishes, but you're there for the pizza. The traditional pie has a chewy deep-dish crust, smothered with fresh tomatoes and a blend of three cheeses. The crab pizza, surely a Baltimore exclusive, is a sauceless pizza piled with lump crab and onions, with a generous helping of Old Bay for seasoning. Eat in or carry out, either way you won't be disappointed.

Haussner's, the legendary German restaurant and home of the giant twine-ball and other oddities, closed in 1999, but the building still stands. It now houses A Moveable Feast, a nonprofit organization that prepares and delivers meals for homebound people living with AIDS.

While it doesn't actually sell food, The Restaurant Supply Store on Conkling Street is drool-worthy in its own right. Professional-quality appliances and gadgets and cooking necessities are available for purchase by restaurateurs and home chefs alike.

The old Grand Theater was demolished to make way for the Southeast Anchor Library (estimated to be finished in mid-2006) but bookworms can also head to the Enoch Pratt Library Highlandtown Branch on Eastern Avenue.

The Patterson Theater reopened in 2003 and houses the Baltimore Creative Alliance. The venue hosts plays, concerts and art shows, adding a healthy dose of creativity to the area.

After the show, grab some java. Head to High Grounds on the corner of East and Eastern avenues, or Patterson Perk, on the corner of Eastern Avenue and Milton Street. High Grounds is a great place to grab a paper and a muffin on your way to work, and Patterson Perk, off the south side of Patterson Park, has indoor and outdoor seating, and a fabulous view. Added bonus for pet people: It's dog-friendly, so when you're walking the pooch you can grab a latte.

Once you're properly juiced and cultured, it's time to awaken your inner wild child. Head to Doc's for tobacco products and, um, tobacco accessories. Get all dolled up in leather and vinyl, lace and satin with fashions from Firefly, Fashions for Exstacy or Barbarian Cycles.

Want to be the prettiest bride (or nattiest groom) this side of Pulaski Highway? Eastern Avenue is sometimes referred to informally as "bridal row." Stella's Bridals has gowns for the bride, tiny frilly frocks for the flower girl and all manner of formalwear for bridesmaids, mothers-of-the-bride or prom queens. Don't let the mannequins scare you (some have no hair, others are missing limbs) -- the fashions inside will satisfy modern brides looking for a sleek statement, as well as poofy-skirted Cinderella gowns for more traditional brides.

Don't forget to make your appointment at Phyllis' Hair Design for the big day. With its white brick and scripty-fonted sign, the salon looks like it's straight out of an "I Love Lucy" episode, evoking 1950s glamour and Ladies Who Lunch. You'll be the belle of the ball.

And don't worry, grooms, you won't be left out. Elegant Touch Tuxedos will fit you for a penguin suit, as will Tuxedo Zone. Both stores are on Eastern Avenue.

The recent additions, shops and residents alike, mesh well with the old standbys. The neighborhood has seen people and stores move in and out, but with generations of families still living here, and new families putting down roots every day, the feeling of community remains intact.

Yuppies, octogenarian retirees or tradesmen, Highlandtown residents still look out for each other, they still get into fights over parking spots when it snows, and they can still be seen sitting on the stoop in the summertime, waiting for the ice cream man and spying on all the neighbors, who are spying on them.

Highlandtown

This working class neighborhood mixes old Baltimore charm with a renovation renaissance.

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Highlandtown

This working class neighborhood mixes old Baltimore charm with a renovation renaissance.

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