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Food and Drink: Crab Cake( Kim Hairston, Baltimore Sun photo / February 25, 2014 )
G&M Restaurant & Lounge
804 Hammonds Ferry Road, Linthicum Heights, 410-636-1777, gandmcrabcakes.com
When he and his partner, George Ieromonahos, took over G&M in 1993, John Zoulis says, the restaurant went through about 40 pounds of crab meat a week. Now, Zoulis says, the restaurant uses about 6,500 pounds of crab meat -- jumbo lump, of course -- to make its world-famous crab cakes. And in December, when customers start calling in shipping orders, the restaurant goes through about 20,000 pounds of crab meat.
Not all the crab meat goes into crab cakes -- the restaurant serves crab dip, crab meat cocktails and crab balls, too. But Zoulis says that most of it goes into the crab cakes, which are famously free of filler, simply seasoned -- he won't say with what -- and garnished with a sprig of parsley and a lemon wedge.
People come from all over the world, Zoulis said, to have the G&M crab cake. And they take them all over the world, too. Because the restaurant's Linthicum Heights location is just a five-minute drive from the Baltimore-Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport, Zoulis says, G&M is a frequent pre-boarding stop for travelers who want to take home a Maryland crab cake -- or eat on the plane.
Kevin Moran is one of those savvy travelers. The Annapolis native has made a habit of swinging by G&M before flying back to Dayton, Ohio, from one of his frequent visits back home. "For me, it's a taste of home. You can't get good crab cakes in Dayton," said Moran, who swears by the G&M crab cake. "There's no filling. ... Absolutely, they're the best."
Zoulis himself is reticent about what makes the crab cake. "We are serious about quality and consistency," Zoulis says. "We think people deserve a good return for their buck."
Take note: Moran said he's had no trouble getting G&M crab cakes through security at BWI and that G&M's are less expensive than the crab cakes sold by a competitor in the airport's secure areas.
-- Richard Gorelick