There's plenty to like at Junior's Wine Bar in Federal Hill

By Elizabeth Large | Sun Restaurant Critic

February 24, 2008

A pork shank comes with a whipped sweet potato-carrot side dish. (Sun photo by Elizabeth Malby / December 21, 2007)

It seemed to take forever. And when Junior's Wine Bar finally did open, I don't think anyone expected the renovation to be quite so impressive. The storefront that was once Vespa Cafe and Wine Bar is now merely the first dining room. It still has the stone tile floors of the original; and while it looks quite different -- the tables are less crowded together, for one thing -- the decor is also contemporary, the room done in warm colors with eye-catching paintings on the walls. The tables are copper-topped or marble.

The back has been completely opened up. Go up a couple of steps and there's a new dining room with its own African rosewood bar and a fine red brick floor. The kitchen, where you can glimpse the chefs at work, is to the left, while a small lounge with sleek leather furniture is on the right.

Comparisons with Vespa are unavoidable because it, too, was a Federal Hill wine bar and Junior's executive chef and co-owner, Mike Russell, was Vespa's original chef. Junior's, like Vespa, offers affordable wines and food. (Nothing on the menu is much over $20.) But Vespa was strictly Italian, both in its wines and menu. Junior's wine list, on the other hand, is broken down into Old World and New World reds and whites; and the food is much more eclectic.

The menu is small and seasonal, with starters, light fare (mostly pizza, but one burger), eight entrees and dessert.

Choose carefully and you can have a fabulous meal at Junior's. Salmon cured with sambuca, soft as butter, rests on crisp olive bruschetta, an almost irresistible combination for a first course. In fact, the friend we were with tried my husband's and then wouldn't give it back. His roasted corn soup, which I thought had its own charms and a bit of zing to it, simply couldn't match up.

The menu changes, but right now you can still get the fine pork shank, meaty and tender, with a smooth whip of sweet potatoes and carrots. Fennel and tart apple add adventurous flavor notes.

Plump lobster ravioli, which could have used more lobster (but then what couldn't?), were still outstanding, with a red pepper and chopped tomato sauce and lots of parsley to add flavor diversity and color.

This must be one of the few menus in town without a crab cake on it, although a smoked shrimp and crab cake balanced on a corn risotto cake shows up as a special now and then. Seafood isn't stressed, but there's a likable tuna fillet, not large and not thick, but very fresh and served medium-rare over a dice of winter root vegetables in a slightly sweet sauce. A drizzle of lemon aioli decorates it.

Junior's has several salads with interesting dressings, although they are meant to be starters, not entrees. The arugula with slivers of fried onions and cucumber would have been very fine without its mushy tomato. The gorgonzola dressing added a faint sheen and a nice balance of acid.

Pizza is a staple at Junior's, with some unusual variations like braised duck, Stilton and onion, with a balsamic glaze giving it a touch of sweetness. The pizza would have been even better if the crust had been crustier; it needed more time in the oven.

The bistro wine list isn't long, but there's a decent selection both by the bottle and by the glass of moderately priced wines. Our waitress, unfortunately, was at a loss to talk to us about it because, she said, she hadn't had her training yet. She made up for it by bringing us tastes so we could decide for ourselves.

A restaurant like this cries out for good bread, and Junior's delivered on one of the nights we were there, with crusty olive bread. On another night, unfortunately, we got cold onion focaccia.

Desserts aren't given short shrift. The star is the chocolate creme brulee, with biscotti on the side; but the apple raisin tart with ice cream and a gorgeous caramel sauce is a close second. Traditionalists will love the Grandmother Cake with its custardy filling and flaky pastry. Even the peanut butter and jelly cheesecake is better than it sounds.

All in all, dinner at Junior's Wine Bar was a hit. Those who miss Vespa will find plenty to like there. It's a neighborhood wine bar, but it's also more than that. At night, Junior's has a romantic appeal, and the expanded space and less crowded tables give it the feel of a more serious restaurant.

elizabeth.large@baltsun.com