Rating: ****

Where: 4341 Harford Road

Contact: 410-254-2376, http://www.maggiesfarmmd.com

Open: Monday through Saturday for dinner and Sunday brunch

Prices: Appetizers $7-$13; entrees $24-$38

Food: American cuisine, with a seasonal emphasis

Service: Extremely considerate and well informed

Best dishes: roasted cod with persillade and "chowdah," Truck Patch pork and beans, cornmeal-fried oysters

Parking: available on Safeway lot

Outdoor seating: Sidewalk seating in seasonable weather

Noise level: Comfortable, even when the dining room is full of birthday parties

[Key: Superlative: *****; Excellent: ****; Very Good: ***; Good: **; Promising: *]

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