Rating: *** 1/2

Where: 1500 S. Hanover St., South Baltimore

Contact: 410-244-1501,

Open: Tuesday through Sunday for dinner, Thursday through Sunday for lunch/brunch

Prices: Appetizers, $8 -$14 ; entrees, $16-$28

Food: French country-style versions of Southern-accented American food.

Service: Informed and attentive but relaxed.

Best dishes: Root-vegetable gnocchi with wine-braised lamb ragu, baked oysters, roasted baby pumpkin

Children: No printed children's menu, but the kitchen has limited options ready.

Parking: Close to impossible. Bluegrass provides $5 valet service.

Noise level: Comfortable even when dining rooms are full.

Outdoor seating: Patio seating in nice weather.

[Key: Superlative: *****; Excellent: ****; Very Good: ***; Good: **; Promising: *]

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