Rating: ***

Where: 300 Light St., Inner Harbor

Contact: 410-528-1234, baltimore.hyatt.com

Open: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

Prices: Appetizers $8.50-$14; entrees $20-$32

Food: Contemporary versions of classic American dishes

Service: Enthusiastic, with some hovering.

Best dishes: Hummingbird Farms tomato soup, Caesar salad, New York strip steak

Parking: Adjacent garage parking is $5 for three hours.

Children: The restaurant offers a children's menu for each meal period.

Noise level: For a high-ceilinged room, surprisingly comfortable

Dietary considerations: Most menu items can be modified to accommodate dietary restrictions

[Key: Superlative:*****; Excellent:****; Very Good:***; Good:**; Promising:*]

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