The good name of Chablis was virtually ruined for a long time by American winemakers who hijacked the name to slap on their cheapest white wines. But there is a real place called Chablis in Burgundy, and it produces chardonnays with a distinctive style — of which this is a sterling example. Spared the heavy-handed influence of new oak, the pure flavors of the fruit and the soil come through crystal clear. There are hints of lemon, orange, green apple, minerals and subtle spices. It's expensive, yes, but this is the real deal, the product of a great vintage and an excellent gift for a devotee of fine dry white wine.

From: Chablis, France

Price: $37

Serve with: Oysters, smoked salmon, grilled fish