Even after some 30 years of reviewing wines, there's something new to learn. Falanghina, a white wine varietal I had not encountered before, comes from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius and dates to ancient times. This version is exceptionally complex and elegant, dry almost to the point of being severe. There are hints of nuts, apple, pear and orange zest — along with a delicate hint of pine resin. Among Italian whites, it's a standout.

From: Taburno, Campania, Italy

Price: $20

Serve with: Salmon, swordfish