From: Bolgheri, Italy

Price: $25

Serve with: Sole, rockfish, curry

Yes, this dry white wine from Antinori is pricey, but it more than holds its own with many California chardonnays that cost much more. The vermentino grape may not be well known, but it's one of Italy's finest, and this is a particularly complex and sophisticated version. It offers an appealing interplay of peach and apricot fruit, minerals and fresh herbs such as basil and thyme. While it's a subtle wine, there's also an intensity and penetration that can stand up to strong flavors such as Indian cuisine.

--Michael Dresser