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Wine Find: 2009 Edmeades Zinfandel

Call me a throwback, but I still like these big zins that are so oafish to those afflicted with sensitive Euro-palates. At least when, like this well-crafted wine from Edmeades, a high alcohol level (15.5 percent) is concealed behind gobs of fruit. This full-bodied red boasts intense flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate that combine to give it a Porto-like character without the sweetness. Somehow its manages to be burly and smooth at the same time. Serve it with food with the muscle to wrestle with it.

From: Mendocino County, Calif.

Price: $20

Serve with: Pasta in tomato sauce, turkey

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