The dense square of custard, wrapped in crispy layers of phyllo, was sweet and sticky, thanks to a honey and lemon glaze. By the time we started on dessert, we were nearly stuffed — dinner included a lot of pita bread. But the pie's combination of sweet and tart flavors, crisp pastry, and creamy custard had us hooked. We ate every bite.

Yasou felt busy from the moment we arrived, though never hectic, thanks to our waitress. She was a model of efficiency – checking in regularly and delivering food and drinks speedily — but even with a crowd gathered, she didn't rush anyone.

By the time we finished dessert, the restaurant had calmed down a bit; a few tables sat empty. Still, the kitchen — visible from our seats — stayed busy with the remaining customers and a steady stream of carry-out orders.

Yasou isn't a relaxing place to linger over a long dinner. But it is a friendly spot for Greek food, cooked traditionally and well.

And we'll drink to that. Yasou!

Yasou Greek Bistro

Back story: Opened in January 2012 by the Makris family — the former owners of Milano's, a small local chain of casual Greek and Italian restaurants — Yasou Greek Bistro serves simple, well-executed Greek fare in a busy, friendly suburban setting.

Parking: Lot in front

Signature dish: Don't miss the keftedes, a meatball appetizer. Made with well-seasoned Roseda Farms ground sirloin and pan- fried in olive oil, the meatballs are a fragrant and savory start to the meal.

Where: 11121 York Road, Suite C, Hunt Valley

Contact: 410-527-0208; http://www.yasougreekbistro.com

Open: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Not accepted

Rating: ***

[Key: Superlative: *****; Excellent: ****; Very Good: ***; Good: **; Promising: *]