We were pleasantly surprised to receive an average-size dessert with just a few dollops of cream and squiggles of sauce. The cannoli was a lovely way to end the meal — sweet pastry with filling that was just tart enough to balance the sugar.

On our next visit, though, we might skip dessert. After all, who needs a cannoli when a second helping of seafood fettuccine is an option?

The Olive Tree

Back story: Open since 1992, the Olive Tree in Aberdeen is a go-to spot for traditional Italian-American food. With a nod to its Maryland location, the restaurant puts a special focus on seafood dishes.

Parking: Lot in front

Signature dish: The seafood fettuccine, a large plate of pasta tossed with creamy Alfredo sauce and topped with nicely cooked scallops, shrimp, crab meat and — if requested — lobster tail, is a sweet and delicate take on the classic dish.

Where: 1005 Beards Hill Road, Aberdeen

Contact: 410-272-6217; http://www.marylanditalianrestaurant.net

Open: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Accepted

Rating: ✭1/2

[Key: Superlative: ✭✭✭✭✭; Excellent: ✭✭✭✭; Very Good: ✭✭✭; Good: ✭✭; Promising ✭]