Low Country Kitchen opens: Can you find the Frogmore Stew?

The Baltimore Sun

There's a new low-country cuisine joint in Baltimore. It's called Low Country Kitchen, but just try to find it. Unless you had a good reason to be walking past Hannah Williams' new take-out joint, you might never see it.

It's in Old Town, more specifically the Old Town Mall, which has seen much better days. But the opening of Low Country Kitchen might be the spark the once thriving commercial center has been watiing for.

Williams thinks so. There's almost no competition around for blocks, and although there are fewer than a handful of remaining businesses on Old Town Hall, foot traffic is heavy in the morning, especially with students and workers rushing to their morning buses. At first, Williams thought she's focus on breakfast sandwiches and burgers. Then, when customers started to ask if there was anything else Williams could make, she had an answer ready.

Williams' specialty is the Gullah cuisine she grew up with. (Although she learned pretty quickly that "Gullah" didn’t' resonate too well in Old Town.) Although Williams was born in Greenwich, Conn., she spent her summers on Frogmore Island, one of the Sea Islands off the coast of South Carolina, where her elderly aunts still put out fishing nets.

Low Country Kitchen features daily specials, some of which are permanent items for the asking, like shrimp and grits, pulled pork and Gullah dirty rice. With notice, Williams is ready to prepare the famed Frogmore Stew, the Sea Island variation of the classic crawfish boil.

Right now, there's no seating inside, but Williams said that she's planning to reinstall the counter that was removed when students started hanging around and acting up. Now that Low Country Kitchen has made friends with those same students, Williams thinks it's time to put the counter back.

Other eyes are on Old Town Mall, and if a grant goes through, the pocket courtyard next to Low Country Kitchen could be decorated with a mural. There could even be cafe tables on Old Town Mall this spring.

Low County Kitchen is open Monday through Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.. The carryout is located at 544 Old Town Mall. The phone number is 443-438-6791.


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