Changes at the Chameleon: New chef, bar and brunch

The Baltimore Sun

The Chameleon Cafe on Harford Road has a new executive chef. It's Andrew Weinzirl, recently of the Wine Market in Locust Point.

Weinzirl takes over from The Chameleon's owner, Jeff Smith. Replacing Weinzirl as The Wine Market's executive chef is Wilbur Cox, formerly sous chef at B&O Brasserie.

Weinzirl's debut menu, which is up and running, signals a gentle change in programming at the popular restaurant. Think of it as glasnost. There are more small plates now, and diners are invited to make more casual drop-in visits. There is newly designed nine-seat bar up front, near the open kitchen. And The Chameleon will debut a Sunday brunch on May 6.

Weinzirl's menu divides up into Pantry, Farm, Sea, Beast and Charcuterie sections. From the Farm, breakfast radishes with leek butter and spring pea soup and crispy pig ear. From the Sea, oyster gratin with artichokes and Virginia Ham and grilled soft-shell crabs with pea flan and bacon marmalade. In the Beast section, fried chicken thighs with cracklin' biscuit and cucumber lime slaw and goat ricotta gnocchi with pig's head ragout, pea tendrils and Parmesan.

Cox's first menu at the Wine Market will debut some time arond the first of June.

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