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Barcocina to open Friday in Fells Point

The Baltimore Sun

Barcocina will open Friday in an impressively renovated space in the Brown's Wharf complex.

The team behind Barcocina, who also operate the neighboring Bond Street Social, have focused their top-to-bottom renovation efforts on reorienting the interior toward the harbor, something that the space's former tenants -- most recently Shuckers, which closed last summer -- did not do.

The most notable improvement is the installation of garage-style doors on the wall leading from the main dining and bar area to the 92-seat outdoor patio. And the patio itself has been raised to sit level with the dining area.

The cuisine at Barcocina is Mexican-inspired, but it's not calling itself a Mexican restaurant.

The menu from executive chef Marc Dixon, formerly of Bistro Blanc, starts with a selection of salsas, dips and variations on guacamole -- the house guacamole is flavored with fresh basil and roasted garlic.

Appetizers are things like a chipotle-spiced crab cake and a duck confit empanada. Tacos are filled with chef-driven combinations like braised pork shoulder with charred apple salsa and seared tuna with pickled green papaya, yuzu crema, onion sprouts and salsa verde. Entrees include a seared striped bass with roasted corn, grilled cactus and jicama "succotash" and citrus-grilled lamb loin chops with tomato-cumin braised green lentils.

The restaurant has seating for 135 in the main dining room, which forms a wedge around the central 45-seat bar.

Barcocina, which will be open for dinner daily and for brunch on weekends, is at 1629 Thames St. For information call 410-563-1500 or go to barcocina.com.





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