One World Café

Coffee to chaos

By David Morley | Special to Metromix

There's something very strange about One World Café. I wouldn't call it schizophrenic, but the vibe changes abruptly from one hour to the next. Is One World a take-out coffee shop? A place to meet for lunch? A vegetarian restaurant that permits (lots of) smoking and (heavy) drinking? Yes, yes and yes.

With a full bar, broad wine selection, and plenty of beers on draft, you'd think One World was just another bar, but they've got morning coffee and buns, too. Stopping in one morning for some joe, my experience was unlike what I remember from One World's former locale in Federal Hill. With no one in line, I still had to wait three minutes for service. The coffee, which I then had to pour myself, was cold, and the buns just looked tired.

On a separate occasion, I fit well with the lunchtime crowd. I dined with a three-year-old. Beside the two of us, gossiping mothers allowed the too-large-for-car-seats children to run amok while the others sniffled and cried from their restraints. During these mid-afternoon daycare hours, my young compatriot ordered the veggie dog, and I ate a vegetarian "meatball" sub -- crusty tofu balls with mozzarella and marinara hidden somewhere within a massive sub roll. Likewise, the veggie dog seemed a sad, tiny wiener lost between big buns.

The server was nice -- her only redeeming quality being that she was pretty cute. Perhaps this is why she thought she could get away with being a piss-poor server. She's young, though, maybe she'll figure it out.

I knew One World, literally across the street from Johns Hopkins University, must have some sort of late night action. After all, it's a college joint too, right? I couldn't resign myself to simply pigging out with the kiddies, so I headed back for a look at the nightlife.

The bar was packed when I arrived, which sucks, since I wanted to sit down. The punked-out bartender, Chris, made me feel at home with his laid-back-meets-"I'm-on-it" attitude, not to mention his selection of great old school rock 'n' roll, punk and Neil Diamond. I had reached what is the apex of the One World indie scene, and it warn't too bad.

Nearby, two girls compared hats they'd knitted. Three others rolled their own cigarettes, including one guy who made a bold statement with a coffee can-sized container of Jester tobacco.

It was half-price quesadilla night, and a black bean quesadilla would have cost $3.50. I, however, had just eaten Mexican for lunch, so I opted for a simple meal of Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale and a bowl of vegetarian chili. The bar was so crowded I ate my chili standing, ogling the lone unoccupied bar stool. The gal sitting next to it claimed the stool was reserved for her "sister," but, of course, Sissy never showed.

After my meal, I bumped into a coupla lady friends, and sat with them, nibbling One World's baked fries from their plate.

So from cold coffee, to kids, to college students and rock and roll, One World's an eclectic blend. Schizophrenic? Maybe just caffeinated.

Dish: Solo, I opted for the bowl of vegetarian chili and a Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale. The chili was awesome: flavorful with a spicy kick and chunky bits of vegetables. It is served with tortilla chips that are perfect for scooping. (From my earlier trip, I would avoid the "meatball" sub, unless you're really into bread.)

Damage: Soup to nuts: $8.69, and I left a buck and a half for a tip. The "meatball" sub and veggie dog we ate with the moms came to $9.95 without tip.

Decision: Nighttime, nighttime, nighttime. Seriously, during the summer having lunch al fresco might be fun, but in the meantime, I'll take the smoky, beer swilling crowd with the loud rock and roll and the healthy bar food.