It all started as "that hole in the wall on Liberty Road."
The original Nino Taco was a tiny joint in Randallstown where 25 diners often forfeited comfort and elbow room in exchange for excellent Mexican fare.
Now, Nino Taco can be found in Boulevard Square in Owings Mills, and it's relatively chic in comparison to the old restaurant. With more space, a longer prep line and a flat screen TV, Nino serves the same food in an environment that some might almost consider posh. As a reminder of the past, the audio speakers from the original Nino and some reframed pictures survived the move. A classic and mainstream rock soundtrack fills the air with the sounds of REM, Heart and Kansas. The coziness of this Nino Taco had us reminiscing about the old location, where you often bumped chairs with the people behind you, and the plastic tip bear stared at you entreatingly on your way out.
We were greeted by restaurant manager Ann Radcliffe who served her queue smoothly while she chatted. Radcliffe pointed out a local high-rolling automotive dealer casually eating with an associate and mentioned that some of the Ravens drop in sporadically. A few regulars perched on stools and yammered with the cooks about movies and sports. As Radcliffe puts it, people who frequent Nino actually dig it.
I ordered a half-portion of a spicy beef tostada (because I know from experience that it's more than enough to fill my belly). My fellow diner ordered a batch of Mexican fries -- waffle fries served with a tangy and near-scalding cheese sauce.
Dish: The Mexican fries were tasty, not oily, and the beef tostada might've been the best one I've ever had at Nino. Zesty ground beef stuffed the dish, the blend of Cheddar and American cheese was hefty and the tostada itself was perfectly crisp. Nino uses jalapeno slices when you order a dish spicy, so instead of assaulting your sinuses with a red pepper attack, the jalapenos offer a sharp jab without the overall ass-kicking. Other recommended dishes: the mile-high nachos ($6.99-$9.50) and the house chimichangas, a.k.a. deep-fried burritos ($6.85).
Damage: $8 for the half-tostada. The Mexican fries were $2.25 -- add on two large sodas and the damage was less than $14. Alone, I would've been right on the 10 spot.
Decision: Don't let the business suits and occasional waiting lines dissuade you. For a little caliente-style culinary escape, Nino Taco has always satisfied those who've ventured there.
The original Nino Taco was a tiny joint in Randallstown where 25 diners often forfeited comfort and elbow room in exchange for excellent Mexican fare.
Now, Nino Taco can be found in Boulevard Square in Owings Mills, and it's relatively chic in comparison to the old restaurant. With more space, a longer prep line and a flat screen TV, Nino serves the same food in an environment that some might almost consider posh. As a reminder of the past, the audio speakers from the original Nino and some reframed pictures survived the move. A classic and mainstream rock soundtrack fills the air with the sounds of REM, Heart and Kansas. The coziness of this Nino Taco had us reminiscing about the old location, where you often bumped chairs with the people behind you, and the plastic tip bear stared at you entreatingly on your way out.
We were greeted by restaurant manager Ann Radcliffe who served her queue smoothly while she chatted. Radcliffe pointed out a local high-rolling automotive dealer casually eating with an associate and mentioned that some of the Ravens drop in sporadically. A few regulars perched on stools and yammered with the cooks about movies and sports. As Radcliffe puts it, people who frequent Nino actually dig it.
I ordered a half-portion of a spicy beef tostada (because I know from experience that it's more than enough to fill my belly). My fellow diner ordered a batch of Mexican fries -- waffle fries served with a tangy and near-scalding cheese sauce.
Dish: The Mexican fries were tasty, not oily, and the beef tostada might've been the best one I've ever had at Nino. Zesty ground beef stuffed the dish, the blend of Cheddar and American cheese was hefty and the tostada itself was perfectly crisp. Nino uses jalapeno slices when you order a dish spicy, so instead of assaulting your sinuses with a red pepper attack, the jalapenos offer a sharp jab without the overall ass-kicking. Other recommended dishes: the mile-high nachos ($6.99-$9.50) and the house chimichangas, a.k.a. deep-fried burritos ($6.85).
Damage: $8 for the half-tostada. The Mexican fries were $2.25 -- add on two large sodas and the damage was less than $14. Alone, I would've been right on the 10 spot.
Decision: Don't let the business suits and occasional waiting lines dissuade you. For a little caliente-style culinary escape, Nino Taco has always satisfied those who've ventured there.
