Many of the past decades' greatest sitcoms have featured a lovable dive, an absolute dump-of-an-establishment, where the show's main characters gather for witty banter and enjoyably mediocre food. "Seinfeld" had Monk's Cafe, "Friends" had Central Perk and viewers regularly find "The Family Guy" at the Drunken Clam. The New Wyman Park Restaurant is the realization of that fantasy, and -- assuming you keep your standards low -- you, too, will come to respect its simple charms.
In an era when it seems that every restaurant is served with a side of guise, New Wyman Park cuts the crap, holds the gimmicks and gives you cheap food quickly and without frills. The only attention-grabber is in the name -- what, exactly, is "new" about this place? To judge by its sign and well-worn interior, the New Wyman Park Restaurant is, well, ancient. The covered dessert tray had two doughnuts that may have dated back to the Nixon Administration. It's impossible to say who assumed that New Wyman Park would remain eternally young, but there's something inherently congenial about a place that refuses to acknowledge its age.
When I visited the restaurant, it was in full-on holiday mode, with faux-pine garlands draping the booths and dangling Santa Clauses hung by the bar stools with care. In decorating for the season, New Wyman Park accented its unassuming, blue-collar style. The door was already open; the place was very welcoming. Our waitress was exceptionally nice, even if speedy service wasn't the first thing on her mind.
But that's a good thing: this is one restaurant that is willing to let its customers stew instead of forcing them out with the check. New Wyman Park is less a place to grab a quick bite than a hangout zone for the community's familiar faces. It's close-knit to the point where the food is a kindly afterthought. This, too, is probably for the best, as the restaurant serves typical fare that satisfies without turning heads. To its credit, the BLT is world-class, but most visitors will come for the atmosphere -- or rather, to escape from the put-on atmosphere of other eateries.
The diner was closing as we left, so the door was locked when we tried to exit. As she unlocked it, the waitress laughed, "Locked door, that's probably minus one star." It's not, though. Coddling this reviewer's ego is a sure-fire way to find success. Here's hoping that New Wyman Park never grows too old. Though, it would be nice if they baked some fresh doughnuts.
Dish: New Wyman Park Restaurant is open only for breakfast and lunch, so adjust your appetite accordingly. While I went with the cheeseburger, my friend's BLT was infinitely tastier. The menu is stocked with classic diner fare, so don't expect anything remarkable. But don't be surprised, either, if you come away more impressed than you anticipated.
Damage: The BLT, which any diner will come to regard as a lunchtime necessity, is a mere $3.50. It comes a la carte and all the better for it. Why tamper with a masterpiece? With prices like those -- to my knowledge, nothing is more than $5 -- you can get some dessert and still leave a much-deserved tip.
Decision: Forget the phoniness that you'll encounter at just about any franchise. New Wyman Park is the paragon of local flavor: it is run by real people, plain and simple, and this in itself makes it worth a visit.
In an era when it seems that every restaurant is served with a side of guise, New Wyman Park cuts the crap, holds the gimmicks and gives you cheap food quickly and without frills. The only attention-grabber is in the name -- what, exactly, is "new" about this place? To judge by its sign and well-worn interior, the New Wyman Park Restaurant is, well, ancient. The covered dessert tray had two doughnuts that may have dated back to the Nixon Administration. It's impossible to say who assumed that New Wyman Park would remain eternally young, but there's something inherently congenial about a place that refuses to acknowledge its age.
But that's a good thing: this is one restaurant that is willing to let its customers stew instead of forcing them out with the check. New Wyman Park is less a place to grab a quick bite than a hangout zone for the community's familiar faces. It's close-knit to the point where the food is a kindly afterthought. This, too, is probably for the best, as the restaurant serves typical fare that satisfies without turning heads. To its credit, the BLT is world-class, but most visitors will come for the atmosphere -- or rather, to escape from the put-on atmosphere of other eateries.
The diner was closing as we left, so the door was locked when we tried to exit. As she unlocked it, the waitress laughed, "Locked door, that's probably minus one star." It's not, though. Coddling this reviewer's ego is a sure-fire way to find success. Here's hoping that New Wyman Park never grows too old. Though, it would be nice if they baked some fresh doughnuts.
Dish: New Wyman Park Restaurant is open only for breakfast and lunch, so adjust your appetite accordingly. While I went with the cheeseburger, my friend's BLT was infinitely tastier. The menu is stocked with classic diner fare, so don't expect anything remarkable. But don't be surprised, either, if you come away more impressed than you anticipated.
Damage: The BLT, which any diner will come to regard as a lunchtime necessity, is a mere $3.50. It comes a la carte and all the better for it. Why tamper with a masterpiece? With prices like those -- to my knowledge, nothing is more than $5 -- you can get some dessert and still leave a much-deserved tip.
Decision: Forget the phoniness that you'll encounter at just about any franchise. New Wyman Park is the paragon of local flavor: it is run by real people, plain and simple, and this in itself makes it worth a visit.
