I was really excited to try out Burger Bistro. I like the idea of a new culinary take on an old favorite. When I think bistro, I think hip, French and savory. When I think burgers, I think yum. So why shouldn't this be an awesome experience in culinary creativity? Two words: food court.

I knew Burger Bistro is located at the shops at Kenilworth, but what I didn't know was that it's part of the center's minimal attempt at a full-blown mall food court.

Even though I'm a Towson grad, I had never been to Kenilworth and neither had any of my buds. When we walked in, we realized why. Most of the stores were completely foreign to us -- Stebbins Anderson, anyone? And, those we were familiar with, like South Moon Under, are far too expensive, even for post-grads like us.

Burger Bistro and the upscale shopping center it calls home attract young families and grandparents. Not exactly the most happening crowd. (Not exactly eye candy, either.)

Unfortunately, Burger Bistro doesn't blend the burger with the bistro as its name suggests. Instead, the name only serves as a sad reminder of the restaurant's shortcomings. The small salad bar, soda fountain and display case of doughnuts stood out like sore thumbs against the yellow walls, and the stainless steel amenities (not to mention whatever the hell was going on with that giant fork and spoon wall-hanging) emphasized the bistro's failed attempt at classing up a mall-based burger joint.

The menu is printed on giant signs behind the counter. You order, you get your receipt and a cup for your beverage and wait for your number to be called. While ordering, you can select how you want your burger cooked -- a nice touch, but not a redeeming one.

Hamburgers ($5.95) come with the option of fries, seasoned fries, mashed potatoes or a side salad. In addition to standard offerings, there are wraps ($4.95-$6.95), salmon sandwiches ($8.50), kosher hot dogs ($3.25) and even footlongs ($5.50). Fried zucchini ($3.50) is also available.

The wait wasn't long, but there's little seating in the restaurant: six or eight stainless steel tables seating two people each.

Our cheeseburgers came out in clear plastic carry-out containers and were surrounded by fries. The burger was nice and big, but the bun was almost one-third larger than the meat. Besides being quite dry, Burger Bistro's "seasoned" fries were hardly seasoned at all and nowhere near spicy. Really, though, should I have expected them to meet even this, the least of my expectations?

Dish: The mushroom, cheese and onion burger I ordered was good. The mushrooms and onions, though, were listed among Burger Bistro's free toppings, which makes me wonder why there's even a mushroom burger on the menu.

Damage: My burger, which came with the dry fries, was only $6.50. Add a soft drink at $1.75 (with free refills you'll need, if you plan on swallowing those fries), and that's only $8.25. Everything on the menu is less than $9 and the kids' meals are less than four bucks. Sometimes I wish I was still 12 or younger ...

Decision: There is really no reason to go to Burger Bistro. Ever. The food is OK, but the atmosphere is all over the place. You'll have better luck at a place like Five Guys, which doesn't pretend to be anything it's not: just burgers and fries.