August 29, 2008
Takeout archive
Takeout: Pit beef
Pioneer Pit Beef in Woodlawn does not accept credit cards. It is open only six hours a day. It does not have a telephone number you can call to place an order. You have to stand in line, sometimes a long one, and wait. It has very limited seating, one picnic table set up outdoors.
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Takeout: Coconut cake
There are two kinds of people in this world: those who love coconut and those who can't stand it. I am a lover.
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Takeout: Vanilla milkshakes
When professional ice-cream tasters visit their franchise locations, they sample the vanilla. It is the benchmark ice cream, the one other flavors spring from. It is hard to hide flaws in vanilla.
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Takeout: Moo Shu Pork
A good way to enjoy watching the Summer Olympics is to snap on the television, put the recliner in the deep-comfort position and order Chinese takeout.
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Takeout: Apricot pastry
Ah, apricots, the orangish orbs that are smaller and more delicate than peaches. They arrive early in the summer and then vanish in a few weeks.
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Takeout: Peach ice cream
Peaches, unlike most people, thrive in hot weather. The broiling sun concentrates the sugars in the fruit, yielding a sweeter peach. So when it is a scorcher, with temperatures in the 90s, I think of those ripening peaches, and all the good ice cream that they will produce.
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Takeout: Soft-shell crab sandwich
It is time to enjoy the soft side of summer - eating soft-shell crab sandwiches. This fare is not for the faint of heart. Some diners are put off by the sight of crab legs and claws dangling over the edge of a sandwich. But for the rest of us, the bodies of these blue crabs are luscious stuff. Caught as they shed their hard shells, these crabs are battered, fried and served in a sandwich with tomato and lettuce. They are rich, delectable and a regional tradition.
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Takeout: Tuna Salad
Maybe it was all those fishy lunches I ate as a kid, but on summer afternoons I have a yen for a tuna-salad sandwich. I know there are upscale versions of this sandwich out there that mix chunks of high-quality tuna with walnuts and grapes, or with fennel, tarragon and capers. But on this go-round I kept it simple: canned tuna salad on rye with lettuce and tomato, served at downtown eateries.
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Takeout: Taramasalata
Taramasalata ranks up there with hummus as a popular puree from afar. This smooth, light pink, slightly salty dip from Greece is made with preserved fish roe, olive oil and lemon. Served lightly chilled with triangles of warm pita bread, it is delectable summer fare.
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Takeout: Iced tea
On a sweltering day in 1904 a tea huckster, India Tea Commissioner Richard Blechynden, was having a hard time convincing visitors to the St. Louis World's Fair to sample his hot tea. So he put the tea in large bottles, flipped them upside down and let the tea flow through iced lead pipes.
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Takeout: Lemon Italian ice
When hot weather hits and, man, has it walloped us lately, I want ice -- lemon Italian ice. Made with water, sugar, lemon juice and, sometimes, lemon rind, it is clean-tasting, frozen and refreshing. On a sweltering day, I found three to try, two of them very good.
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Takeout: Pulled-pork sandwiches
The minute that the weather turns summery, the air should be filled with the smoke from barbecue cookers. So on a recent sunny afternoon I drove around the Baltimore area, sniffing for smoke and eating pulled-pork sandwiches.
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Takeout: Thai green curry
Thai green curry with chicken offers an appealing mixture of sweet and hot flavors. The curry paste has peppery, often fiery, notes, and a coconut milk sauce adds a gratifying creamy richness.
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Takeout: Strawberry pie
May and June are the prime months to enjoy fresh strawberries. One of the most inviting spots you can find strawberries is nestled in a pie, sometimes in the company of rhubarb, another gift of spring.
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Takeout: Jerky
Beef jerky is a fast bite for folks on the go. Historically, it was a favorite of Native Americans, cowboys and passengers on wagon trains rolling west. Now campers, cyclists and adventurers eat it.
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Takeout: Lemon meringue pie
Lemon meringue pie is not an everyday dish. It is something you can treat yourself to, say, once a week. That works out well in the Baltimore area, where some pie makers set aside certain times to roll out the lemon meringue. The Woman's Industrial Exchange, which once featured a dynamite lemon meringue pie, served it on Thursdays. Now the exchange serves up handmade crafts, not pies.
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Takeout: Enchiladas
As Cinco de Mayo approached, I hungered for enchiladas. The May 5 holiday commemorates the victory of the Mexican militia over the French army at the Battle of Puebla in 1862. Enchiladas, corn tortillas stuffed with various fillings and topped with sauce, are a traditional Mexican dish. On South Broadway in Baltimore's Latino neighborhood, I found three good chicken enchiladas.
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Takeout: Asparagus soup
Asparagus is a harbinger of spring. On a recent spring afternoon, I went hunting for asparagus soup along York Road. Here is what I found.
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Takeout: Saag paneer
Saag paneer, a dish that blends chopped spinach, spices and cheese, is a fixture on the takeout menus of many Indian and Pakistani restaurants.
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Takeout: Big burritos
Maybe it is because the Final Four of the NCAA men's basketball championship will be held this week in San Antonio, Texas, where the burrito rules. Or perhaps it is because I have been reading stories about how nowadays the cool, sexy people are vegetarians. Whatever the reason, I recently had a craving to eat black-bean burritos for lunch.
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Takeout: Sausage picks
If you buy some smoked Polish sausage, then pick up a loaf of rye bread and snag some beet-flavored horseradish, you end up with a spicy, satisfying Polish lunch.
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Takeout: Greek snack
There are few more satisfying dishes than a souvlaki. Roughly translated from the Greek as "little swords," souvlaki are sold on the streets of Athens as hand-held snacks, according to the Greek cookbook The Olive and Caper by Susanna Hoffman.
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Takeout: Purim treats
For a cookie named after a bad guy, hamantaschen are surprisingly sweet.
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Takeout: Caesar reigns
Thanks to Julius Caesar, we have leap year. Back in 45 B.C., he established it as part of his Julian calendar. In 1582, Pope Gregory XII fine-tuned it.
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Takeout: Carrot Cake
There was a time in my past when a simple phone message -- "carrot cake today" -- would send me scurrying out of the office, headed for a rendezvous with the dessert at the nowdefunct Buttercup Tea Room restaurant in Annapolis.
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Takeout: Cuban sandwich
In the 1900s, cafeterias in Cuban sugar mills began selling a crusty sandwich stuffed with seasoned pork, ham, cheese and sour pickles. The Cuban sandwich has since migrated to the United States, where it has developed several variations. In Key West, Fla., according to 1001 Foods to Die For, the sandwich comes with mayonnaise and tomatoes, and in Tampa, Fla., a layer of Genoa salami is added to it.
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Takeout: Crispy, good
Biscotti means twice cooked in Italian. These cookies are extra crunchy, sturdy enough to withstand being dipped in a cup of coffee or, if you are so inclined, a glass of wine.
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Takeout: Chicken soup
When the temperature drops and everybody seems to have a cold, chicken soup is appealing. Recently, medical researchers have said that chicken soup may contain a number of substances that could ease the symptoms of upper respiratory tract infections. Or as grandmothers have said since the beginning of time: "Eat some chicken soup; you will feel better."
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Takeout: Movie theater popcorn
For many folks, downing a bag of popcorn is a required part of the movie-going experience. Recently, I went to several movie houses in the Baltimore area and bought a small serving of popcorn, but missed the movie. Here is my report.
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Takeout: Vitamin boost with the juice
Maybe it was the sight of all those fat Florida oranges being tossed in the air by the Kansas Jayhawks football players as they celebrated their televised victory over Virginia Tech in the Orange Bowl. Or maybe it was the knowledge that when the worst of winter hits here, luscious oranges imported from sunny climes arrive in the produce aisle. Or maybe I just needed a big dose of vitamin C.
Takeout: Oysters
It is a custom in this town at year's end for folks to gather around a plate of raw oysters. The oysters are loaded both with tangy flavor and with zinc that puts fuel in your firebox. The gathering provides good cheer.
Takeout: Flight fare
Usually when I arrive at an airport, as so many holiday travelers will next week, my stomach is churning. I have anxiety about getting through security and making my flight.
Takeout: Hot, rich drinks
Technically, there is a difference between a cup of hot chocolate and a cup of hot cocoa. Hot chocolate has cocoa butterfat and is rich and complex. Cocoa is made from cocoa powder, has no butterfat and is uncomplicated yet comforting. But when you are outdoors shivering in the winter wind, as I was recently, you welcome both.
Takeout: Fruitcake
I am a fan of fruitcake. I used to make my own -- a process that required a lot of nuts, a lot of candied lemon peel, a sizable amount of molasses, and brandy.
Takeout: Lots of rolls
Dinner rolls come in handy during the Thanksgiving feast. They are discreet pushers, polite ways to position that piece of turkey or that mound of sweet potatoes onto your folk. Moreover, with oven space at a premium on Thanksgiving, the cook is likely to appreciate a guest who arrives bearing an item that does not require time in the oven.
Takeout: Meatloaf
As far as I know, there is not an official beginning to the meatloaf season. But as soon as the weather gets cold, the wind gets raw and the sun goes down early, I get a hankering for this comforting food.
Takeout: Italian cold cut sandwiches
The Italian cold-cut sandwich is a part of our lunch life. Its beginnings are said to go back to Giovanni Amato, an Italian immigrant who sold fresh-baked rolls filled with meat, cheese and fresh vegetables to his fellow Italians working on the docks of Portland, Maine.
Takeout: Pear pastries
If there is such a thing as "an underrated" fruit, the pear would get my vote. Apples seem to get all the autumnal attention. Recently, as part of my fair play for fruit campaign, I ate pear pastries for a takeout breakfast.
Takeout: Courting Hot Dogs
At virtually every hall of justice in Maryland, there seems to be a hot dog cart.
Takeout
Now that apples, widely regarded as one of nature's most perfect health foods, are in season, the natural instinct is to wrap them in sweet coatings and make them sinful.
Tall orders
The club sandwich is a staple of lunch. Made correctly, with three slices of toasted bread, real bird (chicken or turkey), crisp bacon and fresh lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise, it can be the high point of any day.
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Nutty tests
The true test of your willpower is whether you can eat just one fresh roasted peanut. Recently, I flunked this test - repeatedly - while sampling the 1-pound packages sold by three local peanut roasters.
Game goodies
Lately, the stroll toward the Ravens game has become more appetizing. The aromas of grilled meats, chicken wings, hot dogs and fries wash over football fans as they stream along Ravenswalk, the concourse that runs between Oriole Park at Camden Yards and M&T Bank Stadium.
At the market
Takes the cake
It has been such a long time since we've enjoyed the excitement of a pennant race that the search for Baltimore's top crab cake has replaced baseball as my favorite pastime.
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Having a BLT blast
Simple, delicious and satisfying, the BLT is a lunchtime staple. We tried four from local sandwich shops and diners, looking for the best combination of bacon, lettuce and tomato on lightly toasted white bread with mayonnaise. This is what we found.
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Tasty samosas
Vegetarian samosas, an Indian appetizer, usually consist of mashed potatoes, peas and spices wrapped in a triangular-shaped dough and fried golden. We tried four from local Indian places. Each order came with a side of chutney. This is what we found.
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A peachy treat
Peach cake is a summer tradition in this city. The simple dessert features peach slices on soft bread. The freshness of the fruit will make or break the cake. We tried four pieces from local bakeries. This is what we found.
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Spicy jambalaya
For us, the best jambalaya brings together tender chicken, spicy sausage, vegetables, rice and tomato sauce to make a hearty meal. We tried four jambalayas from area restaurants. Here are the results.
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Such juicy comfort
Sometimes, we hunger for basic comfort food, and you can't get much simpler than a hamburger. We ordered regular burgers cooked medium from four local restaurants. Here's how they measured up.
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Go for fried
Few dishes say summertime like fried chicken. And there is no shortage of fried chicken spots around the city. We sampled pieces from four places. This is what we found.
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Splendid splits
Banana splits can be a divine way to finish a hot summer night. We taste-tested three of them from local ice cream spots. Here are the results.
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Pass the pasta
Need a last-minute picnic suggestion? We tried four chilled pasta salads from local places, searching for a delicious Independence Day side dish. This is what we found.
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Tickled by ribs
Few meals say summer like tender, juicy baby back ribs covered in barbecue sauce. We sampled four half-racks from local restaurants. This is what we found.
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A berry treat
The key to strawberry shortcake is the fruit itself. There is nothing wrong with small strawberries, as long as they are fresh and sweet. We tried four strawberry shortcakes, all of them with poundcake as the base. Here are the results.
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Trip to Soho
The southern stretch of Light Street in Federal Hill is steadily attracting a diverse blend of solid restaurants.
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A new twist
Baltimoreans will put crab dip on anything. The crab pretzel (a soft pretzel covered in crab dip and melted cheese) is a great example. More than one local restaurant claims to have invented the dish. We tried four versions.
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Noteworthy
Every Friday evening through early September, Belvedere Square hosts free concerts by local bands. On show nights, some stores in the Market at Belvedere Square, including the three listed here, are open until about 9 p.m. We took out four easy-to-eat dishes from spots around the square, looking for the best concert-night food.
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Divine dessert
When restaurant critic Elizabeth Large asked for favorite desserts on her dining blog (baltimoresun .com/diningatlarge), we were struck by how many people love bread pudding. We decided to try four from local restaurants. Because most of those we sampled were made in advance, we called ahead, then noted the time it took to get the dessert once we turned up at the restaurant.
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Fine calamari
Raw or steamed, squid has little appeal to us. But bread and fry it, and we're big fans. We ordered fried calamari from four area restaurants. Here's what turned up.
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Eggscitement
In the morning, we'd much rather take out a Western omelet then spend the time making one at home. We ordered four from local eateries, looking for the best combination of scrambled eggs and chopped green peppers, onions and ham. Here's what we found.
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Sushi samples
Yellowtail is one of the more simple and straightforward sushi rolls. We ordered from four area Japanese restaurants. Each order came with wasabi, ginger and soy sauce.
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Shrimp fest
Shrimp-salad sandwiches are all about balance. The dressing should complement -- not overpower -- the shrimp's flavor. We tried four shrimp-salad sandwiches on plain white bread from local restaurants. Here's what we found.
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Dive right in
Fish and chips is hearty British-Isles fare we can always fall back on. Soft fish fried in crispy dough with a side of thick fries is a perfect combination. We tried three orders from Irish restaurants in the city.
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Trying out tacos
Beef tacos are a cheap, tasty and filling Mexican food. We ordered them from four area restaurants. Here's how they measured up.
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On the rolls
Traditionally, Vietnamese spring rolls consist of shrimp, pork and noodles wrapped in soft rice paper. But a number of area restaurants serve a version of egg rolls, complete with ground meat, noodles and chopped vegetables wrapped in a thin dough and deep-fried, and call them spring rolls. We tried four fried roll orders.
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Gobble up burgers made of turkey
When it comes to burgers, ground turkey offers the best of both worlds - that grilled taste with a more healthful profile. We like ours slightly charred and loaded with turkey flavor. We tried four turkey burgers from area bars and restaurants. When given the option, we asked for lettuce, tomato and onion. Here are the results.
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Choice chops
When it comes to pork chops, we like ours tender and seasoned with pepper. We tried three dinner chops from area restaurants, ordering our meat medium when given the option.
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Fries take a sweet turn
Sweet potato fries are a savory snack or side order. We like ours warm, crisp and slightly salty. We sampled fries from four city restaurants. Here's how they fared.
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Pie to savor
In cold weather, we need warm comfort food, and shepherd's pie is always a favorite. We tried the dish from four local restaurants, looking for hearty beef, mashed potatoes and vegetables. Most orders came with white bread on the side. Here's what we found.
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Noodle noshes
You may know yakisoba in simpler terms -- it's a Japanese fried noodle dish usually served with meat, such as chicken, shrimp or beef. We tried chicken yakisoba at four city places. Here's what we found.
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For spicy lite
Trinidad Gourmet, a new carryout in Waverly, is a good option for people who like a less-spicy take on some Indian and Jamaican dishes. Decor is not a priority at this place, which opened last October. There are no tables inside - just a few chairs along a thin counter - but the service is friendly and the food tasty.
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Crepe me out
We like our crepes filled with scrambled eggs, melted cheese and fresh spinach. We tried the combination at three local places.
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Pizza's pull
Thai chicken pizza is a spicy Asian take on the traditional dish. We like ours topped with cheese, roasted peanuts, grated carrots and tender meat. We sampled three personal pizzas from city restaurants, looking for the tastiest one. Here are the results.
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Meals at the mall
Whether you're returning holiday presents or spending gift cards, you'll probably be spending time at a mall soon. But finding a solid meal to fuel your trip can be tricky. We tried four dishes from Towson Town Center at 825 Dulaney Valley Road in Towson.
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Trying Cobb
Now that it's a new year, you may have pledged to eat more healthfully. But if you're not ready to quit meat and cheese cold turkey, Cobb salad can be a great halfway point. It has plenty of greens along with the good stuff: bacon, chicken, cheese and hard-boiled egg. We sampled three salads from area restaurants. Here's what we found.
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Finger food
Chicken fingers are food for both our children and our inner children. We like tender meat coated in thick breading. All four of the orders we tried came with containers of honey mustard for dipping.
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Tamale picks
Tamales, a Latin American dish often served on Christmas Eve, consist of cornmeal dough, usually filled with meat, wrapped in corn husks. The best ones have a rich corn flavor and tender meat inside. We tried chicken tamales from three places. Here are the results.
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Fine holiday fare
Potato pancakes, also called latkes, are a signature dish of Hanukkah, which starts Friday. We like them moist, crispy around the edges and soft in the middle with applesauce on the side. If you're not in the mood to cook, these four spots offer the dish.
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Pass the soup
With the weather turning colder, it's time for warm won-ton soup. We tried four orders from city Chinese restaurants and carryouts, looking for tender dumplings in tasty broth. Each one of these orders also included a package of deep-fried noodles.
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Moist muffins
We like our blueberry muffins soft, moist and loaded with blueberries - the bigger, the better. Our favorites are sweet but not overly sugary. We tried four muffins from cafes around the city. Here are the results.
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Creamy, good
In less than 24 hours, it will be Turkey Day. If you don't have enough time to prepare a Thanksgiving dish of your own between now and then, you'll have to pick one up from a local restaurant.
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Sizing up rings
Whether onion rings are served as a side or all by themselves, they make for great bar and football fare. We sampled orders of onion rings from four places around the city. Here's how they measured up.
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Chocolate-chip cookies: oh, boy
We like our chocolate-chip cookies soft and sweet, with plenty of morsels mixed in. We tried cookies from four places in the city. Here's what we found.