Richard Gorelick reviews and features
Read restaurant reviews, Table Talk columns and more by The Sun's new restaurant critic, Richard Gorelick.
10:56 AM EDT, September 14, 2010
Back in April, when I reported about the opening of an Obrycki's in the Cleveland Hopkins International Airport, I didn't know that there was a "restaurant to be named later" in the deal.
7:04 PM EDT, September 10, 2010
Ten years later, Louisiana still makes a stunning first impression. There was very little resembling fine dining in Fells Point when Richard Saki opened his opulently appointed Creole restaurant in 2000, and certainly nothing on the grand scale of Louisiana. Saki designed Louisiana himself, and I had forgotten how much of the multistory interior is the result of his brilliant salvaging — pink marble from an old Saks Fifth Avenue, railings for the romantic grand staircase from the old Inner Harbor Power Plant and even a portrait of a nude from the legendary Stag Room at the old Haussner's.
September 10, 2010
The new restaurant Brique is easy to find. Once you're over the Bay Bridge, it's just one left turn onto Route 213, and a slight left onto North Commerce Street, the main drag of Centreville. Brique is up ahead on the right. It's just across from the pretty county courthouse, the state's oldest in continuous use. Its shady grounds look like the set for the kind of movie where Julia Roberts returns home and discovers what really matters.
August 28, 2010
In a May 1983 travel column, New York Times food editor Craig Claiborne wrote that "Olde Obrycki's [is] to my mind one of the greatest crab houses in America, which is to say the world."
August 21, 2010
Maybe because it's not on Little Italy's main street, La Tavola always tends to get overlooked. It shouldn't be, though, and I know people who swear by it. It is an easy restaurant to get to know, with a straightforward menu and a notably accommodating staff, the kind of empathetic servers who anticipate your concerns and questions.
6:09 PM EDT, August 6, 2010
The type size on City Cafe's menu is too small. Well, that's about it, folks. Everything else this magically restored Mount Vernon institution is doing is whip-smart and spot-on.
July 31, 2010
You might find yourself sitting in your comfortable booth in the Stanford Grill's big, wide-open dining room saying things like, "You know what, these are really amazing ribs," or, "Actually, this steak is fantastic." All along, the food the Stanford Grill sends out is better than you anticipated, and the surprise factor has to do with how the restaurant sets expectations — not low, really, but as middle as middle can be.
July 24, 2010
The large upstairs dining room at the Point in Fells doesn't get many takers on a weeknight. It's a fine, handsome, timber-ceilinged room, and if you can find a prettier water view on the East Coast than the one from these windows, please tell me.
July 17, 2010
Regions, the follow-up restaurant to the neighboring Catonsville Gourmet, is another winner for the team. If never dazzling, it's admirably sure-footed and impressively versatile. Regions is an especially welcome addition to the upscale-casual category, which keeps steadily improving in the southwestern thumb of Baltimore County.
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