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Asparagus is a harbinger of spring. On a recent spring afternoon, I went hunting for asparagus soup along York Road. Here is what I found.

Best Bite
>>>Side Street Cafe
10921 York Road, Cockeysville

410-329-1106

11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Tucked behind a U-Haul dealer and within hollering distance of the picnic tables of Andy Nelson's Barbecue emporium, this intimate cafe makes a terrific cream of asparagus soup. A single serving, $4.19, came in two 8-ounce containers. They were filled with asparagus stalks and brimming with smooth flavor.

Also Tasted
>>>Saigon Remembered
5857 York Road, Baltimore

410-435-1300

11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 12:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

This was a Vietnamese version of asparagus soup, with delicate flavors and an eggy consistency. Pieces of white asparagus were there, but other ingredients, particularly the green onions, ruled. A 16-ounce serving was $5.78.

>>>Szechuan House Restaurant
1427 York Road, Towson

410-825-8181

11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

Bits of asparagus and crab swim in this light, but somewhat watery, soup. A 16-ounce portion for $3.18 comes with outstanding fried won tons.



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