Takeout: Lemon Italian ice

June 11, 2008

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When hot weather hits and, man, has it walloped us lately, I want ice -- lemon Italian ice. Made with water, sugar, lemon juice and, sometimes, lemon rind, it is clean-tasting, frozen and refreshing. On a sweltering day, I found three to try, two of them very good.

BEST BITE
Address // 802 S. Broadway

Phone // 410-702-5828

Hours // noon-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, noon-midnight Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday

I tasted fruit, fruit, fruit in this excellent lemon treat made, I was told, with organic fruit and raw sugar. The texture was amazing, almost creamy. The balance between citrus and sweetness was just right. This frozen delight comes at a pretty price. I paid $4.77 for a 6-ounce container. But it did take the sting out of a humid afternoon.

BEST BARGAIN
Address // 222 Albemarle St. (Ice also sold at Hunt Valley and Canton locations.)

Phone // 410-685-4905

Hours: // 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday

A lovely, pillowy ice with slightly more sweetness than lemon. This was a generous serving, 8 ounces for $2.90.

ALSO TASTED
Address // 2033 Eastern Ave. (other locations around Maryland)

Phone // 410-732-0214

Hours // 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily

Served in a 10-ounce cup for $1.97, this concoction was surprisingly tart, but too slushy. When it rains, you get two for the price of one.