Takeout: Fruitcake

I am a fan of fruitcake. I used to make my own -- a process that required a lot of nuts, a lot of candied lemon peel, a sizable amount of molasses, and brandy.

As a result, I have a healthy regard for real fruitcake, and virtually no tolerance for would-be comedians who think they are so clever when they recite the line about fruitcake making a good doorstop, or how there is really only one fruitcake that gets passed from home to home.

Recently, I hit the fruitcake trail, looking for places that make the lovely loaf. Here is what I found:

BEST BITE

Address // 529 E. Belvedere Ave.

Phone // 410-323-2396

Hours // 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday

The real thing: a loaf loaded with walnuts, pecans, almonds and a multitude of fruit bits that had been macerated in rum. The cake had excellent moisture. The only glowing items on its body were three cherries on top. The cakes come in small, medium and large, and a fresh batch is baked every Thursday through New Year's. I got the small, which weighed 1 1/4 pounds and cost $10.

BEST BARGAIN

Address // 7560 Holabird Ave., Dundalk

Phone // 410-284-5590

Hours // 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m-5 p.m. Sunday

The $2.99 fruitcake muffin is the right size for eaters who want a small bite. It had strong rum flavors and very bright pieces of green and red candied fruit. There is also a lighter version of the fruitcake, but I prefer the traditional cake.

ALSO TASTED

Address // Lexington Market, 400 W. Lexington St.

Phone // 410-727-3685

Hours // 6 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Brightly wrapped in red and green ribbons, this long, blond loaf, $3.99, was chewy and mild. It would, no doubt, get bolder if it were bathed in brandy.