Elizabeth Large: Signing off
Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic since 1973 and Dining@Large blogger since 2007, announces her forthcoming retirement. Here's a look back at her work at The Sun.
11:38 AM EST, February 19, 2010
Critic's last course
In 1973 a brash young critic had dinner at Danny's, the most acclaimed restaurant in Baltimore. She ate steak Diane flambe and escalopes de veau a la francaise, and wrote that the restaurant "never quite lives up to its pretensions."
March 30, 2003
The critic who ate Baltimore
Thirty years ago a friend told me The Sun was looking for a restaurant critic. I was young and fearless, and I decided to try out for the job by writing a couple of columns. In my wildest dreams I never imagined I would still be writing about crab cakes and cheesecake well into the next millennium. My first column was published on March 30, 1973. It's a small coincidence that today is three decades later to the day, but it's started me thinking about the changes in the Baltimore food scene over the years -- and the changes in me as a restaurant critic.
March 30, 2003
She's not making this up
So you want my job. Well, it isn't all peaches and cream, or lobster and filet, as the following excerpts from my early reviews illustrate. (Bear in mind that this was 20 or 30 years ago. They don't apply to the restaurants of the same name today, most of which don't even have the same owners -- if they're still open.)
March 30, 2003
Jaw-dropping headlines
When I first started reviewing, not only did I have to worry about bad restaurant meals and outraged owners, I had to be wary of the headline writers at The Sun. I would open the newspaper, and my jaw would drop. Here are a few of my favorite headlines from the '70s, my first decade on the job:
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