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Restaurant reviews

As prices creep up, we've got restaurants where the eats are worth the money

October 25, 2007

Alabama BBQ Company
4311 Harford Road // Lauraville // 410-254-1440
Entrees $5.99-$20 // alabamabbqcompany.com
Just about everything at this tiny but cheery restaurant delivers a little extra sweetness or heat. For around six bucks, you can get a platter with two sides, including coleslaw sweetened with bits of pineapple or baked beans that include a jolt of jalapeno. And then there's the meat - ribs, chicken, brisket and pork, all smoked and slow-cooked over low heat. The highly seasoned and tender ribs, in particular, are not to be missed, though the smoked chicken satisfies as well, particularly when moistened with the restaurant's sassy Alabama White sauce. Co-owner Louise Pantall creates desserts like decadent whoopee pies and authentic Key Lime pies from scratch. And potato chips are fried while you wait, with super-crispy results. The only problem is there's barely room to sit. Pantall and her business partner, Jay Belle, are looking for a second, larger location, closer to downtown. Keep your eyes open for it. (KN)

Amicci's
231 S. High St., Little Italy // 410-528-1096
Entrees $11.99-$18.99 // amiccis.com
This popular Little Italy restaurant bills itself as a "very casual eatery," but it also is a very affordable one. Maybe that's why it draws such a diverse crowd of couples and families. Portions are generous, and the food is mostly good. Highlights include an appetizer of fresh steamed mussels in garlic sauce that is large enough for two. The calamari appetizer was also large, but not as good as the mussels. The seafood linguine special included plenty of fat shrimp and tender scallops served in a thick, robust marinara sauce. The baked penne with ground beef was topped with delicious, gooey provolone. Wines, mostly Italian and Californian, are affordable and served by the glass as well as by the bottle. But desserts are an afterthought. On the night we visited, the only dessert option was chocolate-chip cannoli. The shell was crisp, but the chocolate chips in the filling were hard to find. (LA)

Andy Nelson's Southern Pit Barbecue
11007 York Road // Cockeysville // 410-527-1226
Entrees $5.99-$34.19 // andynelsonsbbq.com
There's no table service, the food comes in plastic takeout containers, and the decor consists of pig art and football memorabilia. But none of that matters, because the former Baltimore Colt's legendary barbecue emporium is all about smoke, meat and sauce. And good value - a family of four can eat heartily here for less than $40. The dry Memphis ribs might be too spicy for some, but a hit of Nelson's Bama BBQ Sauce tames them. The beef brisket sandwich is piled high with tender slices, accented nicely by tangy beans and flavorful red-skin potato salad. Collard greens are dotted with pulled pork, and corn bread is good and crumbly; only a bland coleslaw disappoints in the side-dish department. Wash it all down with lemonade or sweet tea. There's only one choice for dessert; good thing you can't go wrong with the buttery Alabama Apple Cake. (KS)

An Loi Pho
7104 Minstrel Way, Columbia // 410-381-3188
Entrees $5.95-$11.95
An Loi Pho has yellow-green walls and rectangular tables arranged in workmanlike rows on a linoleum floor. But customers flock here for the inexpensive and deeply satisfying food - especially steaming bowls of the earthy, oniony Vietnamese noodle soup known as pho, accompanied by platters of bean sprouts, cilantro fronds and lime wedges. For the astonishingly low prices of $6.45 for lunch or $7.95 for dinner, you can get a plate piled high with three items, ranging from grilled beef or shrimp to mixed vegetables in a light garlic sauce, served over rice and accompanied by mildly tart marinated vegetables. Appetizers include summer rolls stuffed with vegetables and gently browned tofu, served with a hearty peanut sauce. Hearty beef-stuffed grape leaves are grilled to create a chewy, smoky exterior. An Loi Pho serves beer and wine, as well as unusual drinks like salted lemonade and thick, fruity bubble tea, with chewy pearls of tapioca that you pull through your extra-wide straw. (KN)

b
1501 Bolton St. // Bolton Hill // 410-383-8600
Entrees $15-$28 // b-bistro.com
Like other urban bistros with an open kitchen, b can be crowded and noisy. But what it offers is priceless: lots of style and very little hype. Its handsome minimalist dining room could be a romantic setting for an important first date or a place to drop in after work for a quick bite, perhaps a plate of tender pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and roasted vegetables, and sauced with tomatoes, brown butter and sage. But when the kitchen is being tested, it can come up with something as refined as grilled wild rockfish with polenta and fresh spinach with parmesan cheese and truffle oil. B has plenty of light fare - pizzas, pastas, entree salads and sandwiches - which will keep the check in the good-deal category, but be careful of add-ons. It's hard to ignore a classic French potato soup with lump crab meat or mussels in white wine, or the homemade ice creams and chocolate bread pudding to end your meal. (EL)

Brasserie Tatin
105 W. 39th St. // Homewood // 443-278-9110
Entrees $19-$36 // brasserietatin.com
The good news is that you can eat at Brasserie Tatin for less money these days. The reason is the prix fixe menu, three courses for $35. If you order the three matching wines, 4-ounce pours, it costs $50. It's a good deal. The choices change often, but if you're lucky you'll get a shot at the English pea soup, a pale green cream that gets to the essence of the vegetable. Or there might be a napoleon of eggplant, tomato slices and mozzarella. The classic bistro steak frites is one possibility for an entree, but with an accomplished chef in the kitchen, I'd try something a little more challenging, like the grilled mahi with peach and avocado salsa or pork medallions with mashed root vegetables. Desserts are a must - the owners also have a French bakery - and I vote for the superb signature tarte Tatin. Sure, you can spend a lot of money here. You just don't have to. (EL)

Chameleon Cafe
4341 Harford Road // Lauraville // 410-254-2376
Entrees $19.95 -$23.95 // thechameleoncafe.com
This pretty little neighborhood place has fine food crafted from local ingredients, a menu that changes seasonally and entrees typically under $25. Wine Wednesdays only add to the allure: You can get sharply discounted bottles that add value to dinner. Chef Jeff Smith isn't shy about bringing out the flavor: His charcuterie plate marries delicate celery sausage and sage sausage with a smooth, robust chicken pate on crusty bread; with the tower of warm, savory fried green tomatoes, our appetizers would have made a wonderful meal in themselves. But then we would have missed out on the expertly pan-fried Chicken Maryland garnished with lardons - pure-heaven bits of fat that, along with the surprise of bananas, finish off a horseradish-cream sauce. Desserts, made in-house, might include a creamy schmierkase (cheesecake), a slice of Baltimore's German heritage. (KS)

Crepe Cafe at Cafe de Paris
8808 Centre Park Drive // Columbia // 410-997-3904
Entrees $4.50-$9.95 // cafedepariscolumbia.com
What could be more logical than opening a crepe cafe serving light lunches and snacks as a casual addition to a more formal French restaurant? While Cafe de Paris serves entrees like escargot and beef burgundy, the adjoining Crepe Cafe, which opened in 2006, serves only crepes - 13 savory ones and 10 sweet ones, all made on the spot. And unlike the restaurant, the cafe is casual enough to allow laptop use. One particularly good choice is the Basquaise, which combines small pieces of chicken with a richly flavorful ratatouille. Like other savory choices, it comes with a sprightly side salad of dark greens in a sesame-infused vinaigrette. Sweet crepes filled with warm berries or gently spiced apples make suitable desserts, but for sheer gotta-have-itness, there's nothing like the gooey hazelnut-chocolate combo known as Nutella. Add a dollop of whipped cream, a cup of coffee and a newspaper, and you have the recipe for a glorious afternoon. (KN)

Dukem Restaurant
1100 Maryland Ave. // 410-385-0318
Entrees $8.95-$29.95 // dukemrestaurant.com
A warm atmosphere combined with a large menu of well-priced authentic Ethiopian fare and helpful servers makes Dukem a go-to for lunch and dinner. Start off with a delicious Dukem salad with chopped tomatoes, onions and fiery jalapenos tossed in oil with a touch of garlic. If you're a newcomer to Ethiopian food, order one of Dukem's combo plates. Most are big enough to feed two people and let you sample a variety of the meats and vegetables the restaurant serves as entrees. Beef tibs (cubes of meat with chopped jalapenos) and cabbage dyed yellow with turmeric were standouts. Both a bottle of light Harar lager and a glass of T'ej, a sweet and syrupy Ethiopian honey wine, offer crisp relief from the restaurant's spicier dishes. Circles of spongy injera come with the meals. Instead of using utensils, you tear off hunks of the bread and pick up food with them. To top off a meal, try a slice of warm baklava - brown and flaky on top and sweet and sticky on the bottom. (SS)

Five Guys
201 E. Pratt St., Harborplace // 410-244-7175
Entrees $2.99-$5.49 // fiveguys.com
When it comes to Inner Harbor dining, it's hard to find a better bargain than Five Guys. A family of three can have lunch for less than $25, and that includes free soft-drink refills. The secret to the low prices - and to the success of the Virginia-based chain - is the idea that less is more. So at Five Guys the menu is limited to hamburgers, hot dogs and french fries. There are regular burgers (two patties) and there are little burgers (one patty), served on sesame-seed rolls. Made from fresh ground beef, they are juicy and delicious. If you don't feel like a burger, you can have a grilled kosher hot dog. For variety's sake, you can turn the burgers into cheeseburgers and the hot dog into a cheese dog. Some toppings are available at no extra cost. The french fries, chunky wedges fried in peanut oil, come in regular or Cajun flavor. (LA)

The Flying Avocado Cafe
10210 S. Dolfield Road // Owings Mills // 443-471-2600
Entrees $4.25-$11.95 // flyingavocado.com
This sunny restaurant with the silly name is devoted to the premise that healthy eating doesn't mean nap time for your taste buds. Salads, sandwiches and dips start with fresh, good-for-you ingredients like organic field greens or free-range chicken, then ratchet up the flavor with extras like sun-dried tomato pesto, horseradish mayonnaise and garlic. Simplicity is not the goal here. Why serve a plain chicken sandwich when you can add goat cheese, tomato pesto, roasted pepper, artichoke and avocado? And why stop with a Caesar salad of garlicky, lightly dressed greens and excellent parmesan, when you can add tender, pink-in-the-middle ahi tuna? Even with these extras, nearly everything at Flying Avocado costs less than $10. A sweeping roster of coffee drinks and blended drinks, including a luscious, not-too-sweet banana-maple smoothie, provides satisfying alternatives to the usual soft drinks. Only with the "power ball," a dessert made with a long list of nuts and seeds, does Flying Avocado devolve into health-food cliche. (KN)

Gertrude's
Baltimore Museum of Art // 10 Art Museum Drive // Homewood // 410-889-3399
Entrees: $12-$35 // gertrudesbaltimore.com
The garden setting is always beautiful, but the time to go to Gertrude's for a bargain meal is Tuesday. Then the regional Chesapeake entrees are $10 or $12, and there's a respectable list of wines for $18. I don't see much reason to look beyond the crab cake platter with coleslaw and hot, skinny fries. Single fry oysters are a good bet, too. Tuesdays are also the only time Maryland fried chicken is on the menu, with mashed potatoes, gravy and vegetables. You can't beat that for $10. You could end up spending more than you expect once you wander away from those specials. A glass of house merlot - a rather skimpy pour at that - ended up costing $11, and the waiter didn't mention the price. Order some raw oysters to begin with or delectable cream of crab soup, and finish with one of the hard-to-resist desserts, and you'll end up spending more than you bargained for. (EL)

Golden West Cafe
1105 W. 36th St. // Hampden // 410-889-8891
Entrees $7.99-$16.99 // goldenwestcafe.com
This funky Hampden cafe serves mountains of Southwestern food, along with breakfast all day. It's become a favorite spot for families with small children, who play in a nook filled with books and toys while their parents enjoy a decent meal. Stick to the food the place is known for, and you should leave with a full belly (and more food to take home) for not much money. A starter of empanadas de luz offered a crisp exterior and tender meat inside. The spicy chorizo burrito with colorful chile sauce is enough for two meals. And the kids can always have the fluffy blueberry pancakes - offered in whole wheat, if you please - for dinner. Other offerings were less successful. A green chile cheeseburger was overdone (though partly redeemed by the tasty garlic fries with it). Tres leches cake was far too sweet. Certain burgers are discounted Monday nights, and some bottles of wines are marked down Wednesdays. (KS)

Grapevine Cafe
20 Church Lane // Cockeysville // 410-667-0010
Entrees $12.50-$26 // thegrapevinecafe.com
The bottom line is if you live in the Cockeysville area, you no longer have to go to Greektown to get your fix of dolmades, stuffed grapevine leaves, spanakopita or green beans stewed with tomatoes. The Grapevine's Greek food is as good as you'll find anywhere around here. That's where the deals lie; but there is plenty of American food on the menu as well, so you have a gyro and a filet mignon with black truffle sauce sharing the same kitchen. In spite of the split personality, the Grapevine is a good-natured place where you can have soft shells stuffed with crab imperial, while I enjoy the restaurant's sturdy but refined moussaka or fall-off-the-bone lamb shanks in tomato sauce. The desserts, however, are purely Mediterranean. Greek restaurants have traditionally not done well in the suburbs. Maybe a restaurant where ethnic dishes are only part of the draw has found the secret to not only surviving but thriving. (EL)

Helmand
806 N. Charles St. // Mount Vernon // 410-752-0311
Entrees $10.95-$17.95 // helmand.com
Good, old reliable Helmand. It consistently turns out quality Afghan food at remarkably reasonable prices - reasonable partly because some of the best things on the menu are vegetarian, like the aushak, ravioli filled with leeks topped with a yogurt and mint sauce; the peppers stuffed with seasoned vegetables and beans; and any of the eggplant choices. Some dishes don't thrill me - I can't see stewing sea bass, even in ginger - but the lamb dishes have always been enjoyable. And I usually have room for ice cream with dates, figs and mango. The Helmand isn't quite the bargain it used to be (you pay for the bread now, for instance), but what is? Also, you need to go at an off hour if you don't want to feel rushed and squeezed in by other customers. But when the restaurant is half-full, and you can enjoy the good food, appealing decor and excellent service in relative quiet, the Helmand is a lovely place to be. (EL)

Henninger's Tavern
1812 Bank St. // Fells Point // 410-342-2172
Entrees $17-$28 // henningerstavern.com
Henninger's Tavern is a neighborhood bar that aspires to be a good restaurant, and mostly succeeds. The split personality is striking: In the bar, walls are plastered with photos of celebrities, erotic dancers and popes. In the tiny dining room, there are white tablecloths and fresh flowers - and a menu that far surpasses bar food. Don't miss the plump breaded oysters served on a bed of spinach with Pernod fennel cream. For bolder flavor, try the bacon-wrapped shrimp brushed with a tangy homemade barbecue sauce. Entrees were a bit uneven. The Cuban roast pork was a little dry, although the chimichurri sauce almost saved it. The paella was loaded with shrimp, mussels, clams and linguica sausage, although it was a tad too salty. Desserts are a highlight and include a creamy Key lime pie and a flourless chocolate cake, although the pistachio gelato sounds just as alluring. All desserts are $5. Wine, mostly Californian, is available by the glass for $6. (LA)

Holy Frijoles
908 W. 36th St. // Hampden // 410-235-BEAN
Entrees $5.95-$11.95
With authentic food, pleasant service and a festive atmosphere, Holy Frijoles is a cheap and colorful lunch or dinner destination. The menu has a fairly simple selection of Mexican favorites, but the portions are large and the prices low. The filling nachos appetizer has a large mound of chips drizzled with melted cheese and dotted with olives, hot peppers and salsa. Most entrees, including burritos stuffed with hearty chorizo sausage, are less than $10. The peppery steak fajitas, like most of the other menu options, are solid takes on standard Mexican fare. Since the drink list is constantly in flux, ask your server what margaritas the bar is offering that night. The cucumber margarita (it tastes better than it sounds) and the renowned pomegranate margarita (a smooth, crisp sip) are among the most popular alcoholic beverages. Holy Frijoles has no dessert menu, but after you've eaten an appetizer and an entree, finding room for a third course is almost out of the question. (SS)

Iggies
818 N. Calvert St. // Mount Vernon // 410-528-0818
Pizzas $6.95-$16.95 // iggiespizza.com
Somewhere along the way, pizza has become gourmet food, and there's no better evidence of that than an Iggies Neapolitan pie. Take the Anatra, which showcases duck confit, blue cheese, red onions and asparagus on a thin, crisp crust. My personal favorite is Verdura Fresco with roasted vegetables, balsamic reduction, pecorino and mozzarella, although I have had quality-control issues with it. The homemade soup and pasta, like the penne sauced with fresh peas, pancetta, gorgonzola and cream, live up to the pizzas; but I haven't had the same luck with the salad. The greens can be somewhat tired-looking, and the warm pancetta dressing with the spinach and arugula salad doesn't have much taste. Wisely, dessert is limited to sorbets. Iggies understands what it should concentrate on, which is food that cooks in a high-heat brick oven. Iggies' colorful, fun dining room is self-service. It's BYOB and no tipping is allowed, all of which makes the meal less pricey. (EL)

Iron Bridge Wine Co.
10435 State Route 108 // Columbia // 410-997-3456
Entrees: $13-$20 // ironbridgewines.com
Wine takes center stage at the Iron Bridge Wine Co., which prides itself on carrying more than 350 bottles of wine - many from small vineyards. The restaurant offers 30 wines by the glass with prices ranging from $6 to $16. For those who like to experiment, there are wine flights for $13 to $18. The servers are friendly and knowledgeable, and the atmosphere is cozy and casual. With a recent expansion, there's a sleek new bar for weekly wine dinners and tastings. The entrees - all $20 or less - include the duo of beef with a tender filet with an onion marmalade and a braised beef short rib in a mustard sauce. The seared sea scallops appetizer consisted of two plump scallops served alongside bacon-braised kale. The portions aren't enormous, but that saves room for the luscious desserts, including a homey walnut-apple bread pudding and creamy cheesecake. Look for the monthly specials, when you can pick up a bottle of wine for about $10. (LA)

Kali's Court Mezze
1606 Thames St. // Fells Point // 410-563-7600
Small plates $3.95-$13.95. kalismezze.com
Tapas are no longer as trendy as they were a couple of years ago, but Mezze's small plates work because this is the way you want to eat in a hip little place where everyone is having a good time. If you like seafood or Mediterranean food, you'll be happy here. Have a glass of wine or sangria and order plates to share such as fried blue points with aioli, plump stuffed grape leaves or grilled sardines. Baby lamb chops with crisp-edged roasted potatoes are a must. But what I like about Mezze's small plates is that they aren't just protein. Lima beans baked with onions and herbs, grilled asparagus with browned bread crumbs and roast eggplant are all favorites. Warm pita comes with the small plates to dip into baba ghannouj or tapenade. There are plenty of choices in the $5-to-$6 range, so you can walk out of Mezze having eaten a very good meal for small change. (EL)

Lebanese Taverna
719 S. President St. // Harbor East // 410-244-5533
Entrees $14-$25 // LebaneseTaverna.com
There are ethnic restaurants that have good food and good prices but no style. And then there is the Lebanese Taverna. The high-ceilinged, contemporary space is a showstopper. You're in surroundings worthy of a special occasion, but you can enjoy dinner without taking out a second mortgage. The menu is endless, with dozens of mezza (small plates), full-scale entrees and plenty of vegetarian options. If you feel overwhelmed, consider ordering the table mezza, where decision-making is left in the hands of the kitchen. Whatever else you get, sample the world-class hummus. The other Middle East classics, like stuffed grape leaves, rotisserie selections and kebabs, will also satisfy. Pine nuts, almonds, fresh mint, yogurt, cilantro and garlic are recurring themes. Seafood like grilled salmon or shrimp is a plus here - moist, fresh and not overcooked. And, of course, end with a sticky-sweet pastry. The Lebanese Taverna is part of a regional chain, but this doesn't feel like a chain-restaurant experience. (EL)

Lemongrass
167 West St. // Annapolis // 410-280-0086
Entrees $9.95-$15.95 // LemongrassAnnapolis.com
Lemongrass, housed in an attractive old building painted lemony yellow, has been a hit pretty much since it opened its doors. That's because the Thai food is innovative, the clientele are young and fun, and the place has a funky vibe and better-than-decent prices. The kitchen makes use of local seafood when it can, like the crispy whole rockfish and soft crabs with garlic, Thai basil and chili. There's an enticing array of spicy hot-and-cold salads (my preference is the honey-roasted duck or papaya). The menu is quite long, and after several visits I haven't found anything I didn't enjoy. It may be a Thai restaurant cliche, but Lemongrass has one of the best shrimp pad Thais around. Start with lettuce wraps - you can have them with fish or chicken, lime, cilantro and chili - or mussels steamed with lemongrass. End with mango and sticky rice or, if you must have something more decadent, there's a fried banana with ice cream. (EL)

Little Spice
1350 Dorsey Road // Hanover // 410-859-0100
Entrees $9.95-$15.50 // littlespice.org
This tiny jewel box of a restaurant serves precisely spiced curries and noodle dishes, all beautifully presented and thoughtfully prepared. From start to finish, there are no stumbles here. An appetizer called Spicy Crispy Ducky Salads is even better than it sounds, with slivers of crisp-tender duck meat fried in a delicious soy-vinegar sauce, then served atop a piquantly dressed salad of lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. Noodle dishes such as Pad Thai or flat noodles with light soy sauce shine by finding that elusive sweet-tangy balance while avoiding the greasiness that can often be troublesome for these dishes. And curries, whether they are spicy or sweet, dazzle with complex flavors and textures. Masaman curry, for example, is sweetened by a base of coconut milk and spiked with heat, while peanuts, potatoes, carrots and chicken add heft to the souplike mix. Desserts include creamy mango, avocado or coconut ice cream served in glass tumblers. (KN)

Mama's on the Half Shell
2901 O'Donnell St. // Canton // 410-276-3160
Entrees $13.95-$30.95
This re-creation of a Baltimore seafood house from another era is lovingly done, but at the same time hipsters don't feel out of place here. It's the best of both worlds, particularly if you love oysters raw, steamed, fried or sauced and baked. (The oysters Rockefeller are excellent.) Oysters are just the beginning. Traditional Maryland seafood is the order of the day; but the kitchen can come up with more daring dishes, like a sweet rockfish fillet with a roasted corn and crab salsa. Still, there is usually a touch of Baltimore in the mix, as evidenced by the drizzle of Old Bay hollandaise on the plump soft shells. So where do the deals come in? There are so many filling seafood-based soups, salads, sandwiches and small plates (the fried oyster po' boy is $10.99), you'll be happy even if you don't get the lobster imperial. And you'll still have room for a slice of rich-beyond-belief derby pie. (EL)

Mari Luna Mexican Grill
102 Reisterstown Road // Pikesville // 410- 486-9910
Entrees $10-$17, mariluna.com
This snug spot, where freshly prepared Mexican dishes are served in very large portions, is almost too good to be true. Service is speedy as waiters simultaneously deliver meals and keep a protective eye on prized spots in the small parking lot. The large chicken tamales in the $8 appetizer are a skillful mix of corn and poultry flavors with a killer pico de gallo sauce on the side. The six-appetizer sampler is substantial, but somewhat soggy. The chile relleno entree, two poblano peppers stuffed with Monterey Jack cheese and chicken, is a knockout, crisp and piquant. The lamb shanks baked in banana leaves are less thrilling. For the diners who still have room for dessert, the pudin (bread pudding with coconut sauce) and the creme brulee (go figure) are good picks. The restaurant has applied for a liquor license, which means its bring-your-own-bottle policy soon could be ending. (RK)

Matthew's Pizza
3131 Eastern Ave. // Highlandtown // 410-276-8755
Pizzas $4.75-$11.75 // matthewspizza.com
Thin, crisp crusts may be all the rage, but not at Matthew's, where cheerful waitresses serve up piping-hot pizzas in the cute-as-a-button dining room for incredibly low prices. Matthew's opened in 1943 - long before anyone thought to put broccoli on pizza - and now has iconic status for Baltimore natives. What you think of the pizzas probably comes down to where you stand on the thin- vs. thick-crust question. The hot, thick, crunchy crust, glistening with oil and covered in homemade sauce and molten cheeses, comes straight from the oven to your table. It's best eaten in the first five minutes. Locally made Roma sausage isn't a bad addition if you want meat. Pasta and subs are also an option, but really - why bother? I would also skip the iceberg lettuce salads and the desserts from Vaccaro's and the Cheesecake Factory and concentrate on the pizza. Talk about deals: Dinner for the two of us came to about $30. (EL)

MemSahib
400 W. Lexington St. // West Baltimore // 410-576-7777
Entrees $20 prix-fixe meal // memsahibrestaurant.com
MemSahib makes surprisingly scrumptious Indian food in an unlikely setting: Lexington Market. The projection screen TV, with its queue of Indian musicals, interrupted the restaurant's otherwise elegant but comfortable decor. For dinner, the restaurant offers a three-course prix-fixe dinner menu, which costs $20 and changes regularly. Two slightly overcooked vegetable samosas came as appetizers, along with chickpeas in a tasty tomato-based sauce and a side of tamarind chutney. The tandoori chicken was the star of the main course selection. Marinated twice and cooked in a tandoor oven, the savory meat was tender and evenly seasoned. The lamb curry, with hunks of the meat covered in sauce, was a heavier - but no less appealing - option. A fragrant, thick rice pudding seasoned with crushed cardamom seeds and garnished with almond slices was the final dish. But the cup of steaming masala chai tea is perhaps a more suitable way to cap the meal. (SS)

Milton's Grill
336 N. Charles St. // Downtown // 443-220-0180
Entrees $10.95-$17.50
Milton's Grill offers an interesting mix of young and old, black and white, suburbanites and urbanites, all with one thing in common: a desire for decent barbecue, unfussy food, rock-bottom prices and pleasant folks doing the serving. The place could not be more low-key. It serves up large portions of well-cooked barbecued meats with a sweet-but-not-too-sweet red sauce and several homemade sides. Dishes like pulled pork quesadilla could be dreadful but - dare I say it? - the kitchen pulls it off. Don't miss the homemade potato salad and cole slaw, and the Mega Sweet Potato, a specialty. It's an enormous golden treat, soft and hot inside. The most inventive thing on the menu is the Inside Out Chicken Pot Pie Soup. How you feel about this depends on how you feel about starting your meal with a chicken pot pie, because that's what it is. Desserts aren't homemade, but that's OK. You won't have room for them anyway. (EL)

Mirchi Wok
6365A Dobbin Road // Columbia // 410-730-4689
Entrees $9.95-$18.95
Mango Grove, Columbia's popular vegetarian Indian restaurant, now has an omnivore cousin in Mirchi Wok, which serves hearty, masterfully spiced chicken, seafood and lamb dishes, as well as meat-free entrees. The restaurants share ownership and a front door, but each has its own kitchen and menu. Though the typical Indian kormas and kebabs are served at Mirchi Wok, so are creations like the rarra laal maas, a rich stew that marries the earthy flavors of both ground lamb and chunks of lamb with a heady mix of spices. Also good are the flavorful and tender tandoori chicken, served on the bone, and the pudhina pahadi tikka, large chunks of white-meat chicken marinated in yogurt and coated in cilantro and other spices for a tender and flavorful result. Mirchi Wok feels like a restaurant in a shopping center - because that's what it is - but the reasonable prices and terrific service make up for the less-than-spectacular setting. (KN)

Orchard Market & Cafe
8815 Orchard Tree Lane // Towson // 410-339-7700
Entrees $5.95-$17.95 // orchardmarketandcafe.com
Tucked in a strip mall off Joppa Road, the Orchard Market is hard to locate, but rewarding when you do - this is a "find." (Gardiners Furniture is your turn.) This is a family-run restaurant that encourages customers to bring their own wine. The cuisine and artwork are Persian, reflecting the tastes of the land that now is part of Iran and Afghanistan. The appetizers are fresh and appealing. The sauteed jumbo shrimp with mango and onions is sweet and unique. The eggplant and artichokes with feta cheese brings out the best notes of the vegetables. Classic Persian entrees such as orange-poached duck and lamb with pomegranate sauce and plums are stewed and sugary. Kataifi, an almond-and-walnut pastry, looks like shredded wheat, but tastes sweeter. A house-made apple cake with cherries and cream is a delight. Even more pleasing was the bill - $61 for dinner for two, enjoyed with a bottle of customer-carried dry rose. (RK)

Pesce Grande
2019 West St. // Annapolis // 410-224-0205
Entrees $9-$32 // pescegrandeitaliangrille.com
Pesce Grande neatly straddles the divide between sports bar and elegant Italian restaurant. Yes, there are televisions aplenty, pizza and calzones on the menu and even a beer poster or two, but Pesce Grande also offers sophisticated seafood, veal and pasta dishes, and a wine list that complements them. The restaurant's attentive service, tomato-red walls, elegant lighting and whimsical framed prints make this a good-enough-for-special-occasions kind of place. While many dishes cross the $20 line, bargains abound. One nice touch: Nearly every dish is offered in a less-expensive "piccolo" size. You also can save money at lunch by opting for the $11.95 buffet, which includes complex, flavorful renditions of rigatoni, stuffed shells and eggplant parmesan, as well as cheese and pepperoni pizza and a salad bar. At dinner, a $59 taster's menu feeds two people with a table-groaning assortment that includes tender fried calamari, rockfish, salad, rigatoni, steak and cannolis. (KN)

Sammy's Trattoria
1200 N. Charles St. // Mount Vernon // 410-837-9999
Entrees $14.99-$29.99 // sammystrattoria.com
You can think of Sammy's as Little Italy North. Owner Sam Curreri and a number of his staff came from Chiapparelli's, where he worked as general manager. You'll get that same warm, homey feeling and lots of good southern Italian food at his restaurant, plus a sunny, stylish decor that lures an attractive bar crowd. The great deal here is the family-style dinner for $35 a person. You put yourself in the chef's hands and get four or more courses, which could include summer tomatoes with mozzarella and basil, or a deliciously garlicky shrimp; large portions of homemade lasagna with tender noodles and a robust Bolognese sauce; veal or chicken francese (I'd go with the chicken; the veal could have been pounded more); salad and desserts from, yes, Little Italy, like cannoli and tiramisu. Dinner will hold no surprises at Sammy's, but it will be decent and filling, the service will be attentive, and you are almost guaranteed to have a good time. (EL)

Samos
600 S. Oldham St. // Greektown // 410-675-5292
Entrees $14.50-$22.50 // samosrestaurant.com
It's Greek in Greektown, it's BYOB, and it takes cash only - all of which help make Samos a bargain. What really seals the deal, though, is that owner Nick Georgalas is right there behind the stove, turning out some of the best Greek food in Baltimore. If you just order one of the platters, you will have more than enough food, what with the Greek salad, pita, vegetables and roast potatoes or rice that comes with the tender little lamb chops, savory lemon chicken, shrimp Plaka and other entrees. But why stop there? Go for Samos' version of a prix fixe and get various small dishes like excellent dolmades, spanakopita and tzatziki as well. Not to mention the homemade rice pudding or baklava for dessert. Expect to wait in line at Samos if it's anywhere close to dinner hour (no reservations are taken), and look forward to the time when the new dining room upstairs is completed. (EL)

Smedly's
600 S. Wolfe St. // Fells Point // 410-563-7545
Entrees $2-$7 // smedlys.com
Smedly's serves a changing roster of inexpensive (think $6 and under) fresh-made soups, muffins, cheesecakes and cheery but small entrees, all made by Cordon Bleu-trained Helena Williams, who lives in an apartment upstairs with her husband, Bob, a marketing professor who runs the coffee shop with her. Portions at Smedly's are small, but each little item is lovingly prepared and often just a bit unusual. The day's offerings, written in a rainbow of chalk colors, might include a white chili, made with ground turkey and chili, cannellini beans and a bechamel sauce, or a plate of sliced pears with cubes of several flavorful cheeses. Drinks include the renowned illy brand of coffee and espresso, organic tea and insanely rich sipping chocolate. Board games, newspapers and wireless Internet service encourage lingering, and customers can scrawl their own message on a chalkboard that lines one wall of the narrow space. (KN)

SoBo Cafe
6 W. Cross St. // Federal Hill // 410-752-1518
Entrees $13-$21
After 10 years, SoBo Cafe isn't quite the incredible bargain it was when it first opened, but it still dishes up large quantities of good food for relatively small change. A small but decent wine list is another plus. This is nouvelle comfort food. Chicken marinated in red wine and pepper, for instance, nestles in chevre cream over pasta. Starters are minimal, but fresh salads and a slab of mac and cheese are standards on the menu, which changes daily. Folks looking for a filling meal for less than $25 with a glass of wine will probably head straight for entrees like the large and inexpensive Big As Yo' Face Eggplant Lasagna or, a step up, catfish stuffed with shrimp. There will be dessert only if the pastry chef feels like baking. All in all, the benefits of a meal at SoBo Cafe outweigh the quirky disadvantages. Try to go at an off hour, though. When it's busy, the noise can be headache-inducing. (EL)

Sushi Sono
10215 Wincopin Circle // Columbia // 410-997-6131
Entrees $12.95-$35.95 // sushisonomd.com
This popular Japanese restaurant can get crowded, especially on weekends, but customers don't seem to mind. While they wait for a table, some take the time to stroll around the Columbia lakefront, visible through the restaurant's large windows. They probably know that once they are seated, their food will arrive quickly, and it will be worth the wait. Sushi Sono serves teriyaki dishes, elegantly crisp tempuras and fresh, flavorful sushi and sashimi. But it is best known for its elaborate and beautifully presented rolls. Offerings change daily, but one of the most popular is the Bridal Veil, stuffed with sumptuous lobster salad and wrapped in ultra-thin slices of raw tuna. The dragon roll, another favorite, combines the melt-in-your-mouth crunch of shrimp tempura with a topping of cool white lobster meat. Round out the meal with a starter of delicate shumai (tiny steamed shrimp dumplings) and a bowl of creamy, mild red bean ice cream for dessert. (KN)

Szechuan Restaurant
1125 S. Charles St. // South Baltimore // 410-752-8409
Entrees $7.95-$15.50
From the looks of it, not much has changed at Szechuan Restaurant in the past 10 or 15 years. Even the photos of former patrons on the wall look pretty dated. But the menu has an expansive list of Chinese-American favorites and more authentic fare - all made well. The wine list has about a dozen options, and the sole Chinese beer offered is Tsingtao. For an appetizer, order the cold noodles, which come coated in a thick peanut sauce. Entrees are fairly inexpensive and are served in sizable portions. Szechuan chicken had tender meat and thin vegetable strips coated in a spicy red-pepper sauce. Meat lovers should try the House Roast Duck, a half-duck cooked so the skin was brown and crisp. It's only $9.50. Though the menu taped to the front windows of the restaurant might say otherwise, no dessert was offered when we went. (SS)

Tapas Teatro
1711 N. Charles St. // Station North Arts and Entertainment District // 410-332-0110
Entrees $2.95-$15.95 // tapasteatro.net
This bustling cafe nestled next to the Charles Theatre, where small plates of the mostly Mediterranean fare are served with clatter and speed, offers a lot of highly flavored food for not much money. The cold tapas plate of serrano ham, manchego cheese, tomato and basil is solid, but many of the same ingredients shine when they appear as a bocadillo, or small sandwich. The roasted eggplant with peppers and mint is artful; the sweet peas in tomato sauce and sausage less so. Broiled medallions of moist sea bass are perfectly cooked, but nothing is better than the two grilled lamb chops, dressed with a barbecue sauce made with rhubarb. There's a smart selection of Spanish and South American wines by the glass; the $17 pitcher of house-made sangria is a bargain, if a bit sweet. The flan and other desserts are not as fine as the savory fare. (RK)

The Wine Market
921 E. Fort Ave. // Locust Point // 410-244-6166
Entrees $15-$24 // the-wine-market.com
The Wine Market isn't cheap - but it's hard to think of a better fine-dining deal than this outpost of South Baltimore industrial chic. The food and wine look and taste more expensive than they are and come with attentive service. The care starts with appetizers. A chilled pea soup garnished with morels and bacon was almost too pretty to eat. Entrees have a lot going on, but somehow it all works. Tender pan-seared sea scallops sat on a bed of risotto that contained not only sweet corn and wilted spinach, but pork confit. Strip steak might show up with gnocchi, fava beans, pancetta and mushrooms. Desserts included a wonderfully creamy panna cotta with blueberry-coriander syrup and a whimsical chocolate trio. Wines, many of them available in the adjoining store, are attractively priced. Mondays are "neighborhood nights," with 20-percent- off entrees and 30 bottles of wine for about $15 each. And you don't even have to live in the neighborhood. (KS)

Zella's Pizzeria
1145 Hollins St. // West Baltimore // 410-685-6999
Entrees $7-$11 // zellaspizzeria.com
For less than $12, you can feast on an enormous meatball calzone or a 10-inch pizza topped with ingredients like caramelized onions, artichokes and prosciutto at this new casual restaurant across from Hollins Market. The restaurant's blond wood accents, brightly painted walls and shiny-new stamped tin ceiling make the place particularly welcoming, as does the delicious smell of garlic that greets you at the door. Customers can choose their own pizza toppings or go for recommended combos like pesto chicken pizza, with chunks of grilled chicken, bits of savory sun-dried tomato, slivers of roasted red onion and red pepper, and even slices of olives and chunks of feta cheese. Dough, sauces and salad dressings are made in house, and salads are topped with a warm wedge of fresh garlic-cheese bread. Sandwiches, chicken wings, ravioli and lasagna round out the tightly focused menu. You won't leave hungry, but you might want to leave room for a breath mint after your meal. (KN)

The employment status of Bob Williams of Smedly's was misstated when this article was published in the print edition. The Sun regrets the error.