Revisiting the heyday of department stores and five-and-dimes

The kimchi linguine at Range

There was a lot to love about Bryan Voltaggio's new restaurant, but the highlight for us was this kimchi linguine, tossed with grilled sea scallops and garnished with nasturtium leaves and uni, in foam form as a butter-like, emulsified sliver. Restaurant information: Range Review: Range, Bryan Voltaggio's latest, is seriously good
Kenneth K. Lam, Baltimore Sun photo
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