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EntertainmentFood & Dining

Tender is the brisket

RecipesJudaismPassoverHolidaysPassover SederBill Daley

Reyna Simnegar's Persian father-in-law flatly refuses to use a knife along with his fork when eating meat. It's a fork and spoon when one is dining in the Persian style, so that meat had better be tender, reports the author of the new Sephardic kosher cookbook, "Persian Food from the Non-Persian Bride" (Feldheim, $34.99).

Meat so tender you could almost eat it with a spoon is one of the hallmarks of a good beef brisket, star of many a Seder table come Passover, which begins at sundown April 18."It is so tender because it's kosher meat," Simnegar says of her brisket. Koshered meat is salted before cooking to draw out blood from the flesh.

"When meat is salted beforehand, it is incredibly soft, and the flavor is incredible," she says. Here are other factors in the quest for brisket tenderness:

Method. : The brisket, from which pastrami and corned beef are made, is a tough cut from the breast section of the animal. Long braising is the preferred way to cook it.

"The key is slow, long cooking in liquid to make it tender," says Joan Nathan, a Jewish-American cooking authority and author. Cooking a brisket takes a few hours, yes, but Nathan notes it can be pretty much a hands-off process.

"People say you need to baste it every few hours, but I usually forget," says Nathan. Time. : How long should your brisket cook? Depends on what you're looking for.

"Some folks love their brisket just falling apart. After 1 hour and 20 minutes, your brisket will be tender and tasty and slice easily (like for a sandwich)," writes Jamie Geller in her new book, "Quick & Kosher Meals in Minutes" (Feldheim, $34.99). "Cook another 2 hours and the meat will just fall apart and melt in your mouth. There are no rules for this one. It's up to you."

Fat. : There is, however, a rule about fat. Keep the fat on the meat while it cooks.

"Fat bastes the meat and keeps it from getting dry and stringy," says Joyce Goldstein, a chef and cookbook author. So adamant is she about buying meat with the fat still on, she special orders her brisket from her butcher.

Goldstein trims the fat from the meat after braising and skims any fat from the gravy as well before serving.

Given the rush of preparing for Passover, you might want to consider cooking that brisket ahead of time. Nathan recommends refrigerating the cooked brisket in its cooking liquid. When cool, cut off the fat and slice the meat against the grain. Put the sliced brisket back in the liquid and freeze until ready to reheat and serve.

"As for a sauce on top," Nathan says, "the gravy is so good on a brisket, I don't bother."

wdaley@tribune.com

Brisket with ginger, orange peel and tomato

Prep: 30 minutes

Cook: 2 hours 50 minutes

Makes: 10 servings

This recipe from chef Daniel Rose of Spring restaurant in Paris is included in Joan Nathan's latest cookbook, "Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France" (Knopf, $39.95).

1 beef brisket, 3-5 pounds

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 small spring onions, halved, or 2 medium onions, thickly sliced

6 carrots, peeled

8 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 cup dry white wine

3 cups veal, beef or chicken broth

3 small tomatoes, halved

2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs fresh parsley plus 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 piece (1/2-inch long) ginger root

Green top of 1 leek

2 each: lemons, oranges

1. Season the brisket with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Brown the meat, about 4 minutes per side. Remove.

2. Add the onions, carrots and garlic to the Dutch oven; cook until just beginning to soften, 5-10 minutes. Raise the heat to high; add the vinegar. Stir, scraping up bits on the bottom of the pot. Add the wine; cook, stirring, to reduce, 3-5 minutes.

3. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Return brisket to the Dutch oven; add the stock. Heat to a simmer; add the tomatoes, thyme, bay leaf, parsley sprigs, ginger and leek top. Peel the zest in long strips from one lemon and one orange. Add to the pot. Cover; place in oven. Cook, 45 minutes; lower temperature to 275 degrees; cook until tender, 2-2 1/2 hours.

4. Remove the meat and vegetables from the pot. Discard the zest, herb sprigs, ginger, bay leaf and leek. Allow meat to rest 15 minutes. Slice on the bias; arrange on a serving platter along with the vegetables. Strain the sauce into a saucepan; reduce over high heat until thickened. Grate the zest of remaining lemon and orange. Pour sauce over brisket; sprinkle with grated zest and chopped parsley.

Nutrition information

Per serving: 239 calories, 34% of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 58 mg cholesterol, 9 g carbohydrates, 30 g protein, 668 mg sodium, 2 g fiber

Keywords: RECIPE

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