But the Canton tavern, which has taken to calling itself by the shortened name OLAR, has a superb wine list and a massively engaging cocktail program, too.
Spirituality Terroir is a fascinating concoction. Each sip of it reveals something new. It's herby but not overly so, sweet just when you want it to be but never cloying or fruity.
It has the refreshing quality of an aperitif but packs a fine wallop, too.
I wanted to take it apart and pull it back together. So I got some help from Josh Bosstick, who runs OLAR's bar with Ryan Travers. Bosstick let me have a sip of the four ingredients that make up Spirituality Terroir.
"Each part of the cocktail is culturally specific to a particular region, and some use ingredients only found in their part of the world," Bosstick said, explaining the cocktail's name.
They were: St. George Terroir, a California-made botanical gin with hints of Douglas fir, California Bay laurel and coastal sage; Bonal, a wine-based, herby aperitif from France; Barr Hill Tom Cat, a barrel-aged gin from Vermont; and, last but not least, Atholl Brose, a scotch-based liqueur made with honey, oats and Highland herbs
Atholl Brose "is one of our absolute favorite things behind our bar," Bosstick said. "Hands down, one of the best spirits and one of the things that we are incredibly proud to support."
What I loved about Spirituality Terroir, which Bosstick stresses was a collaborative effort, was how much the sum equaled its parts. I would order the cocktail again and again for its own sake.
I loved how the rosemary sprig garnish signals your senses to expect notes of pine. And I liked the rounded out quality of the cocktail, which Bosstick says the Bonal produces.
And I especially loved how Spirituality Terroir made me want to know more about its component parts.
How to make the Spirituality Terroir
11/2 oz. St. George Terroir gin
11/2 oz. Bonal apertif
3/4 oz. Atholl Brose
3/4 oz. Barr Hill Tom Cat barrel-aged gin
Place all of the ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake well with ice. Use same ice to get a "crushed" sense for the drink. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a Luxardo maraschino cherry.
Where to get the Spirituality Terroir
Of Love and Regret
1028 S. Conkling St., Canton