Publican Quality Meats -- Outstanding restaurant

At its core, Publican Quality Meats is no different from every other neighborhood butcher from <a class="taxInlineTagLink" id="PLGEO100100501254000" title="Hegewisch" href="/topic/us/illinois/cook-county/chicago/hegewisch-PLGEO100100501254000.topic">Hegewisch</a> to <a class="taxInlineTagLink" id="PLGEO100100501257500" title="Rogers Park" href="/topic/us/illinois/cook-county/chicago/rogers-park-PLGEO100100501257500.topic">Rogers Park</a>. But because chef Paul Kahan's name is attached (<a class="taxInlineTagLink" id="PLENT000309" title="Blackbird" href="/topic/lifestyle-leisure/dining-drinking/chicago-restaurants/blackbird-PLENT000309.topic">Blackbird,</a> Avec, Big Star), enthusiasm for this Fulton Market shop has reached Level: Unbridled. And it's entirely merited. Indeed, there's a certain <i>Kahanness</i> about the operation &#8212; fat pork, good beer and Midwestern niceties &#8212; but credit must be shared with the tag team of head butcher Cosmo Goss and chef de cuisine Chris Kuziemko. The former provides the cured sausages and smoked meats for the latter to fashion into fully formed menu items. All the BLT, muffaletta and meatball sandwiches we tasted were flawless ideals of the form, and the ribollita soup made from cotechino sausage, beans and house-made focaccia is one of the finest winter soups in the city. This is a butcher shop to sit and stay awhile.<br>
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<i>Publican Quality Meats, 825 W. Fulton Market, Chicago; 312-445-8977</i><br>
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<i>&#8212; <a href="http://bio.tribune.com/KevinPang">Kevin Pang</a></i>
ct-dining-2012-chicago-tribune-dining-awards-005

( Alex Garcia/Chicago Tribune )

At its core, Publican Quality Meats is no different from every other neighborhood butcher from Hegewisch to Rogers Park. But because chef Paul Kahan's name is attached (Blackbird, Avec, Big Star), enthusiasm for this Fulton Market shop has reached Level: Unbridled. And it's entirely merited. Indeed, there's a certain Kahanness about the operation — fat pork, good beer and Midwestern niceties — but credit must be shared with the tag team of head butcher Cosmo Goss and chef de cuisine Chris Kuziemko. The former provides the cured sausages and smoked meats for the latter to fashion into fully formed menu items. All the BLT, muffaletta and meatball sandwiches we tasted were flawless ideals of the form, and the ribollita soup made from cotechino sausage, beans and house-made focaccia is one of the finest winter soups in the city. This is a butcher shop to sit and stay awhile.

Publican Quality Meats, 825 W. Fulton Market, Chicago; 312-445-8977

Kevin Pang

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