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The Baltimore Sun

Black Dog Gelato

859 N. Damen Ave., Chicago; Signature: Goat cheese-caramel cashew (or the whiskey ice cream bar rolled in candied bacon bits) The other day someone spray-painted curses on the bench outside Jessie Oloroso's month-old Ukrainian Village shop. Then last week, a brick flew through the window. Maybe when you've become the poster girl for Chicago's ice cream renaissance, you paint a target on your back. Oloroso, 34, said she has wondered if rivals are out to ruin her. She says this with a wink, but she's not entirely kidding. The Rogers Park native, who sold to restaurants such as Uncommon Ground and had a pint business for years, now has her first shop, and lines are out the door — her hours are listed as noon to "until we run out." Oloroso says she would like it to get a bit quieter. That cheddar cheese gelato she's testing isn't going to blend itself. Tribune photo by Brian Cassella