Kitchens: Bluegrass

Taking over from Patrick Morrow, the chef who opened this superb South Baltimore restaurant, Ray Kumm has fine-tuned the menu, which is now a pitch-perfect rendition of boldly assembled regional American cuisine -- bison, pheasant, fried chicken and smoked fried chicken.--Richard Gorelick Venue address: 1500 S. Hanover St.
Lloyd Fox, Baltimore Sun
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